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hasty roof just as the rain commenced。 The baggage was covered over with leaves； and the men sheltered themselves as they could till the storm was over； by which time a flood came down the river； which effectually stopped our further march； even had we wished to proceed。 We then lighted fires； I made some coffee； and my men roasted their fish and plantains； and as soon as it was dark； we made ourselves comfortable for the night。
Starting at six the next morning； we had three hours of the same kind of walking； during which we crossed the river at least thirty or forty times； the water being generally knee…deep。 This brought us to a place where the road left the stream； and here we stopped to breakfast。 We then had a long walk over the mountain； by a tolerable path； which reached an elevation of about fifteen hundred feet above the sea。 Here I noticed one of the smallest and most elegant tree ferns I had ever seen； the stem being scarcely thicker than my thumb； yet reaching a height of fifteen or twenty feet。 I also caught a new butterfly of the genus Pieris； and a magnificent female specimen of Papilio gambrisius； of which I had hitherto only found the males； which are smaller and very different in colour。 Descending the other side of the ridge； by a very steep path； we reached another river at a spot which is about the centre of the island； and which was to be our resting place for two or three days。 In a couple of hour my men had built a little sleeping…shed for me； about eight feet by four； with a bench of split poles； they themselves occupying two or three smaller ones； which had been put up by former passengers。
The river here was about twenty yards wide； running over a pebbly and sometimes a rocky bed； and bordered by steep hills with occasionally flat swampy spots between their base and the stream。 The whole country was one dense； Unbroken； and very damp and gloomy virgin forest。 Just at our resting…place there was a little bush…covered island in the middle of the channel； so that the opening in the forest made by the river was wider than usual； and allowed a few gleams of sunshine to penetrate。 Here there were several handsome butterflies flying about； the finest of which； however； escaped me； and I never saw it again during my stay。 In the two days and a half which we remained here； I wandered almost all day up and down the stream； searching after butterflies； of which I got； in all； fifty or sixty specimens； with several species quite new to me。 There were many others which I saw only once； and did not capture； causing me to regret that there was no village in these interior valleys where I could stay a month。 In the early part of each morning I went out with my gun in search of birds； and two of my men were out almost all day after deer； but we were all equally unsuccessful； getting absolutely nothing the whole time we were in the forest。 The only good bird seen was the fine Amboyna lory； but these were always too high to shoot； besides this； the great Moluccan hornbill； which I did not want； was almost the only bird met with。 I saw not a single ground…thrush； or kingfisher； or pigeon； and； in fact； have never been in a forest so utterly desert of animal life as this appeared to be。 Even in all other groups of insects； except butterflies； there was the same poverty。 I bad hoped to find some rare tiger beetles； as I had done in similar situations in Celebes； but； though I searched closely in forest； river…bed； and mountain…brook； I could find nothing but the two common Amboyna species。 Other beetles there were absolutely none。
The constant walking in water； and over rocks and pebbles； quite destroyed the two pair of shoes I brought with me； so that； on my return； they actually fell to pieces； and the last day I had to walk in my stockings very painfully； and reached home quite lame。 On our way back from Makariki； as on our way there； we had storm and rain at sea； and we arrived at Awaiya late in the evening； with all our baggage drenched； and ourselves thoroughly uncomfortable。 All the time I had been in Ceram I had suffered much from the irritating bites of an invisible acarus； which is worse than mosquitoes； ants； and every other pest； because it is impossible to guard against them。 This last journey in the forest left me covered from head to foot with inflamed lumps； which； after my return to Amboyna； produced a serious disease； confining me to the house for nearly two months； a not very pleasant memento of my first visit to Ceram； which terminated with the year 1859。
It was not till the 24th of February； 1860； that I started again； intending to pass from village to village along the coast； staying where I found a suitable locality。 I had a letter from the Governor of the Moluccas； requesting all the chiefs to supply me with boats and men to carry me on my journey。 The first boat took me in two days to Amahay； on the opposite side of the bay to Awaiya。 The chief here； wonderful to relate； did not make any excuses for delay； but immediately ordered out the boat which was to carry me on； put my baggage on hoard； set up mast and sails after dark； and had the men ready that nigh； so that we were actually on our way at five the next morning；a display of energy and activity I scarcely ever saw before in a native chief on such an occasion。 We touched at Cepa； and stayed for the night at Tamilan； the first two Mahometan villages on the south coast of Ceram。 The next day； about noon； we reached Hoya； which was as Far as my present boat and crew were going to take me。 The anchorage is about a mile east of the village； which is faced by coral reefs； and we had to wait for the evening tide to move up and unload the boat into the strange rotten wooden pavilion kept for visitors。
There was no boat here large enough to take my baggage； and although two would have done very well； the Rajah insisted upon sending four。 The reason of this I found was； that there were four small villages under his rule； and by sending a boat from each he would avoid the difficult task of choosing two and letting off the others。 I was told that at the next village of Teluti there were plenty of Alfuros； and that I could get abundance of Tories and other birds。 The Rajah declared that black and yellow Tories and black cockatoos were found there； but I am inclined to think he knew very well he was telling me lies； and that it was only a scheme to satisfy me with his plan of taking me to that village； instead of a day's journey further on； as I desired。 Here； as at most of the villages； I was asked for spirits； the people being mere nominal Mahometans； who confine their religion almost entirely to a disgust at pork； and a few other forbidden articles of food。 The next morning； after much trouble； we got our cargoes loaded； and had a delightful row across the deep bay of Teluti； with a view of the grand central mountain…range of Ceram。 Our four boats were rowed by sixty men； with flags flying and tom…toms beating； as well as very vigorous shouting and singing to keep up their spirits。 The sea way smooth； the morning bright； and the whole scene very exhilarating。 On landing； the Orang…kaya and several of the chief men； in gorgeous silk jackets； were waiting to receive us； and conducted me to a house prepared for my reception； where I determined to stay a few days； and see if the country round produced anything new。
My first inquiries were about the lories； but I could get very little satisfactory information。 The only kinds known were the ring…necked lory and the common red and green lorikeet； both common at Amboyna。 Black Tories and cockatoos were quite unknown。 The Alfuros resided in the mountains five or six days' journey away； and there were only one or two live birds to be found in the village； and these were worthless。 My hunters could get nothing but a few common birds； and notwithstanding fine mountains； luxuriant forests； and a locality a hundred miles eastward； I could find no new insects； and extremely few even of the common species of Amboyna and West Ceram。 It was evidently no use stopping at such a place； and I was determined to move on as soon as possible。
The village of Teluti is populous； but straggling and very dirty。 Sago trees here cover the mountain side； instead of growing as usual in low swamps； but a closer examination shows that they grow in swampy patches； which have formed among the loose rocks that cover the ground； and which are kept constantly full of moisture by the rains； and by the abundance of rills which trickle down among them。 This sago forms almost the whole subsistence of the inhabitants； who appear to cultivate nothing but a few small patches of maize and sweet potatoes。 Hence； as before explained； the scarcity of insects。 The Orang…kaya has fine clothes； handsome lamps； and other expensive European goods； yet lives every day on sago and fish as miserably as the rest。
After three days in this barren place I left on the morning of March 6th； in two boats of the same size as those which had brought me to Teluti。 With some difficulty I had obtained permission to take these boats on to Tobo； where I intended to stay a while； and therefore got on pretty quickly； changing men at the village of Laiemu； and arrivi