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stay a while； and therefore got on pretty quickly； changing men at the village of Laiemu； and arriving in a heavy rain at Ahtiago。 As there was a good deal of surf here； and likely to be more if the wind blew hard during the night； our boats were pulled up on the beach； and after supping at the Orang…kaya's house； and writing down a vocabulary of the language of the Alfuros； who live in the mountains inland； I returned to sleep in the boat。 Next morning we proceeded； changing men at Warenama； and again at Hatometen； at both of which places there was much surf and no harbour； so that the men had to go on shore and come on board by swimming。 Arriving in the evening of March 7th at Batuassa； the first village belonging to the Rajah of Tobo； and under the government of Banda； the surf was very heavy； owing to a strong westward swell。 We therefore rounded the rocky point on which the village was situated； but found it very little better on the other side。 We were obliged； however； to go on shore here； and waiting till the people on the beach had made preparations； by placing a row of logs from the water's edge on which to pull up our boats； we rowed as quickly as we could straight on to them； after watching till the heaviest surfs had passed。 The moment we touched ground our men all jumped out； and； assisted by those on shore； attempted to haul up the boat high and dry； but not having sufficient hands； the surf repeatedly broke into the stern。 The steepness of the beach； however； prevented any damage being done； and the other boat having both crews to haul at it； was got up without difficulty。
The next morning； the water being low； the breakers were at some distance from shore； and we had to watch for a smooth moment after bringing the boats to the water's edge； and so got safely out to sea。 At the two next villages； Tobo and Ossong； we also took in fresh men； who came swimming through the surf； and at the latter place the Rajah came on board and accompanied me to Kissalaut； where he has a house which he lent me during my stay。 Here again was a heavy surf； and it was with great difficulty we got the boats safely hauled up。 At Amboyna I had been promised at this season a calm sea and the wind off shore； but in this case； as in every other； I had been unable to obtain any reliable information as to the winds and seasons of places distant two or three days' journey。 It appears； however； that owing to the general direction of the island of Ceram （E。S。E。 and W。N。W。）； there is a heavy surf and scarcely any shelter on the south coast during the west monsoon； when alone a journey to the eastward can be safely made； while during the east monsoon； when I proposed to return along the north coast to Wahai； I should probably find that equally exposed and dangerous。 But although the general direction of the west monsoon in the Banda sea causes a heavy swell； with bad surf on the coast； yet we had little advantage of the wind； for； owing I suppose to the numerous bays and headlands； we had contrary south…east or even due east winds all the way； and had to make almost the whole distance from Amboyna by force of rowing。 We had therefore all the disadvantages； and none of the advantages； of this west monsoon； which I was told would insure me a quick and pleasant journey。
I was delayed at Kissa…laut just four weeks； although after the first three days I saw that it would be quite useless for me to stay； and begged the Rajah to give me a prau and men to carry me on to Goram。 But instead of getting one close at hand； he insisted on sending several miles off； and when after many delays it at length arrived； it was altogether unsuitable and too small to carry my baggage。 Another was then ordered to be brought immediately； and was promised in three days； but doable that time elapsed and none appeared； and we were obliged at length to get one at the adjoining village； where it might have been so much more easily obtained at first。 Then came caulking and covering over； and quarrels between the owner and the Rajah's men； which occupied more than another ten days； during all which time I was getting absolutely nothing； finding this part of Ceram a perfect desert in zoology。 although a most beautiful country； and with a very luxuriant vegetation。 It was a complete puzzle； which to this day I have not been able to understand； the only thing I obtained worth notice during my month's stay here being a few good land shells。
At length； on April 4th； we succeeded in getting away in our little boat of about four tons burthen； in which my numerous boxes were with difficulty packed so as to leave sleeping and cooling room。 The craft could not boast an ounce of iron or a foot of rope in any part of its construction； nor a morsel of pitch or paint in its decoration。 The planks were fastened together in the usual ingenious way with pegs and rattans。 The mast was a bamboo triangle； requiring no shrouds； and carrying a long mat sail； two rudders were hung on the quarters by rattans； the anchor was of wood； and a long and thick rattan； served as a cable。 Our crew consisted of four men； whose pole accommodation was about three feet by four in the bows and stern； with the sloping thatch roof to stretch themselves upon for a change。 We had nearly a hundred miles to go； fully exposed to the swell of the Banda sea； which is sometimes very considerable； but we luckily had it calm and smooth； so that we made the voyage in comparative comfort。
On the second day we passed the eastern extremity of Ceram； formed of a group of hummocky limestone hills； and； sailing by the islands of Kwammer and Keffing； both thickly inhabited； came in sight of the little town of Kilwaru； which appears to rise out of the sea like a rustic Venice。 This place has really a most extraordinary appearance； as not a particle of land or vegetation can be seen； but a long way out at sea a large village seems to float upon the water。 There is of course a small island of several acres in extent； but the houses are built so closely all round it upon piles in the water； that it is completely hidden。 It is a place of great traffic； being the emporium for much of the produce of these Eastern seas； and is the residence of many Bugis and Ceramese traders； and appears to have been chosen on account of its being close to the only deep channel between the extensive shoals of Ceram…laut and those bordering the east end of Ceram。 We now had contrary east winds； and were obliged to pole over the shallow coral reefs of Ceram…laut for nearly thirty miles。 The only danger of our voyage was just at its termination； for as we were rowing towards Manowolko； the largest of the Goram group； we were carried out so rapidly by a strong westerly current； that I was almost certain at one time we should pass clear of the island； in which case our situation would have been both disagreeable and dangerous； as； with the east wind which had just set in； we might have been unable to return for many days； and we had not a day's water on board。 At the critical moment I served out some strong spirits to my men； which put fresh vigour into their arms； and carried us out of the influence of the current before it was too late。
MANOWOLKO； GORAM GROUP。
On arriving at Manowolko； we found the Rajah was at the opposite island of Goram； but he was immediately sent for； and in the meantime a large shed was given for our accommodation。 At night the Rajah came； and the next day I had a visit from him； and found； as I expected； that I had already made his acquaintance three years before at Aru。 He was very friendly； and we had a long talk； but when I begged for a boat and men to take me on to Ke； he made a host of difficulties。 There were no praus； as all had gone to Ke or Aim； and even if one were found； there were no men； as it was the season when all were away trading。 But he promised to see about it； and I was obliged to wait。 For the next two or three days there was more talking and more difficulties were raised； and I had time to make an examination of the island and the people。
Manowolko is about fifteen miles long； and is a mere； upraised coral…reef。 Two or three hundred yards inland rise cliffs of coral rock； in many parts perpendicular； and one or two hundred feet high； and this； I was informed； is characteristic of the whole island； in which there is no other kind of rock； and no stream of water。 A few cracks and chasms furnish paths to the top of these cliffs； where there is an open undulating country； in which the chief vegetable grounds of the inhabitants are situated。
The people hereat least the chief menwere of a much purer Malay race than the Mahometans of the mainland of Ceram； which is perhaps due to there having been no indigenes on these small islands when the first settlers arrived。 In Ceram； the Alfuros of Papuan race are the predominant type； the Malay physiognomy being seldom well marked； whereas here the reverse is the case； and a slight infusion of Papuan on a mixture of Malay and Bugis has produced a very good…looking set of people。 The lower class of the population consist almost entirely of the indigenes of the adjacent island。 They are a fine race； with strongly…marked Papuan features； frizzly hair； and brown complexi