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nut; but I have met with nothing else superior to our crabs; oar haws; beech…nuts; wild plums; and acorns; fruits which would be highly esteemed by the natives of these islands; and would form an important part of their sustenance。 All the fine tropical fruits are as much cultivated productions as our apples; peaches; and plums; and their wild prototypes; when found; are generally either tasteless or uneatable。
The people of Matabello; like those of most of the Mahometan villages of East Ceram and Goram; amused me much by their strange ideas concerning the Russian war。 They believe that the Russians were not only most thoroughly beaten by the Turks; but were absolutely conquered; and all converted to Islamism! And they can hardly be convinced that such is not the case; and that had it not been for the assistance of France and England; the poor Sultan world have fared ill。 Another of their motions is; that the Turks are the largest and strongest people in the worldin fact a race of giants; that they eat enormous quantities of meat; and are a most ferocious and irresistible nation。 Whence such strangely incorrect opinions could have arisen it is difficult to understand; unless they are derived from Arab priests; or hadjis returned from Mecca; who may have heard of the ancient prowess of the Turkish armies when they made all Europe tremble; and suppose that their character and warlike capacity must be the same at the present time。
GORAM
A steady south…east wind having set in; we returned to Manowolko on the 25th of April; and the day after crossed over to Ondor; the chief village of Goram。
Around this island extends; with few interruptions; an encircling coral reef about a quarter of a mile from the shore; visible as a stripe of pale green water; but only at very lowest ebb…tides showing any rock above the surface。 There are several deep entrances through this reef; and inside it there is hood anchorage in all weathers。 The land rises gradually to a moderate height; and numerous small streams descend on all sides。 The mere existence of these streams would prove that the island was not entirely coralline; as in that case all the water would sink through the porous rock as it does at Manowolko and Matabello; but we have more positive proof in the pebbles and stones of their beds; which exhibit a variety of stratified crystalline rocks。 About a hundred yards from the beach rises a wall of coral rock; ten or twenty feet high; above which is an undulating surface of rugged coral; which slopes downward towards the interior; and then after a slight ascent is bounded by a second wall of coral。 Similar walls occur higher up; and coral is found on the highest part of the island。
This peculiar structure teaches us that before the coral was formed land existed in this spot; that this land sunk gradually beneath the waters; but with intervals of rest; during which encircling reef's were formed around it at different elevations; that it then rose to above its present elevation; and is now again sinking。 We infer this; because encircling reefs are a proof of subsidence; and if the island were again elevated about a hundred feet; what is now the reef and the shallow sea within it would form a wall of coral rock; and an undulating coralline plain; exactly similar to those that still exist at various altitudes up to the summit of the island。 We learn also that these changes have taken place at a comparatively recent epoch; for the surface of the coral has scarcely suffered from the action of the weather; and hundreds of sea…shells; exactly resembling those still found upon the beach; and many of them retaining their gloss and even their colour; are scattered over the surface of the island to near its summit。
Whether the Goram group formed originally part of New Guinea or of Ceram it is scarcely possible to determine; and its productions will throw little light upon the question; if; as I suppose; the islands have been entirely submerged within the epoch of existing species of animals; as in that case it must owe its present fauna and flora to recent immigration from surrounding lands; and with this view its poverty in species very well agrees。 It possesses much in common with East Ceram; but at the same time has a good deal of resemblance to the Ke Islands and Banda。 The fine pigeon; Carpophaga concinna; inhabits Ke; Banda; 11…Iatabello; and Goram; and is replaced by a distinct species; C。 neglecta; in Ceram。 The insects of these four islands have also a common faciesfacts which seem to indicate that some more extensive land has recently disappeared from the area they now occupy; and has supplied them with a few of its peculiar productions。
The Goram people (among whom I stayed a month) are a race of traders。 Every year they visit the Tenimber; Ke; and Aru Islands; the whole north…west coast of New Guinea from Oetanata to Salwatty; and the island of Waigiou and Mysol。 They also extend their voyages to Tidore and Ternate; as well as to Banda and Amboyna; Their praus are all made by that wonderful race of boatbuilders; the Ke。 islanders; who annually turn out some hundreds of boats; large and small; which can hardly be surpassed for beauty of form and goodness of workmanship; They trade chiefly in tripang; the medicinal mussoi bark; wild nutmegs; and tortoiseshell; which they sell to the Bugis traders at Ceram…laut or Aru; few of them caring to take their products to any other market。 In other respects they are a lazy race; living very poorly; and much given to opium smoking。 The only native manufactures are sail…matting; coarse cotton cloth; and pandanus… leaf boxes; prettily stained and ornamented with shell…work。
In the island of Goram; only eight or ten miles long; there are about a dozen Rajahs; scarcely better off than the rest of the inhabitants; and exercising a mere nominal sway; except when any order is received from the Dutch Government; when; being backed by a higher power; they show a little more strict authority。 My friend the Rajah of Ammer (commonly called Rajah of Goram) told me that a few years ago; before the Dutch had interfered in the affairs of the island; the trade was not carried on so peaceably as at present; rival praus often fighting when on the way to the same locality; or trafficking in the same village。 Now such a thing is never thought of…one of the good effects of the superintendence of a civilized government。 Disputes between villages are still; however; sometimes settled by fighting; and I one day saw about fifty men; carrying long guns and heavy cartridge…belts; march through the village。 They had come from the other side of the island on some question of trespass or boundary; and were prepared for war if peaceable negotiations should fail。
While at Manowolko I had purchased for 100 florins £9。) a small prau; which was brought over the next day; as I was informed it was more easy to have the necessary alterations made in Goram; where several Ke workmen were settled。
As soon as we began getting my prau ready I was obliged to give up collecting; as I found that unless I was constantly on the spot myself very little work would be clone。 As I proposed making some long voyages in this boat; I determined to fit it up conveniently; and was obliged to do all the inside work myself; assisted by my two Amboynese boys。 I had plenty of visitors; surprised to see a white man at work; and much astonished at the novel arrangements I was making in one of their native vessels。 Luckily I had a few tools of my own; including a small saw and some chisels; and these were now severely tried; cutting and fitting heavy iron…wood planks for the flooring and the posts that support the triangular mast。 Being of the best London make; they stood the work well; and without them it would have been impossible for me to have finished my boat with half the neatness; or in double the time。 I had a Ke workman to put in new ribs; for which I bought nails of a Bugis trader; at 8d。 a pound。 My gimlets were; however; too small; and having no augers we were obliged to bore all the holes with hot irons; a most tedious and unsatisfactory operation。
Five men had engaged to work at the prau till finished; and then go with me to Mysol; Waigiou; and Ternate。 Their ideas of work were; however; very different from mine; and I had immense difficulty with them; seldom more than two or three coming together; and a hundred excuses being given for working only half a day when they did come。 Yet they were constantly begging advances of money; saying they had nothing to eat。 When I gave it them they were sure to stay away the next day; and when I refused any further advances some of them declined working any more。 As the boat approached completion my difficulties with the men increased。 The uncle of one had commenced a war; or sort of faction fight; and wanted his assistance; another's wife was ill; and would not let him come; a third had fever and ague; and pains in his head and back; and a fourth had an inexorable creditor who would not let him go out of his sight。 They had all received a month's wages in advance; and though the amount was not large; it was necessary to make them pay it back; or I should get ago men at a11。 I therefore sent the