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elli in 1861。 This I could conveniently do by means of the Dutch mail…steamers； which make a monthly round of the Moluccas。
We arrived at the harbour of Cajeli on the 4th of May； a gun was fired； the Commandant of the fort came alongside in a native boat to receive the post…packet； and took me and my baggage on shore； the steamer going off again without coming to an anchor。 We went to the horse of the Opzeiner； or overseer； a native of Amboyna Bouru being too poor a place to deserve even an Assistant Resident； yet the appearance of the village was very far superior to that of Delli； which possesses 〃His Excellency the Governor；〃 and the little fort； in perfect order； surrounded by neat brass… plots and straight walks； although manned by only a dozen Javanese soldiers with an Adjutant for commander； was a very Sebastopol in comparison with the miserable mud enclosure at Delli； with its numerous staff of Lieutenants； Captain； and Major。 Yet this； as well as most of the forts in the Moluccas； was originally built by the Portuguese themselves。 Oh！ Lusitania； how art thou fallen！
While the Opzeiner was reading his letters； I took a walk round the village with a guide in search of a horse。 The whole place was dreadfully damp and muddy； being built in a swamp with not a spot of ground raised a foot above it； and surrounded by swamps on every side。 The houses were mostly well built； of wooden framework filled in with gaba…gaba （leaf…stems of the sago…palm）； but as they had no whitewash； and the floors were of bare black earth like the roads； and generally on the same level； they were extremely damp and gloomy。 At length I found one with the floor raised about a foot； and succeeded in making a bargain with the owner to turn out immediately； so that by night I had installed myself comfortably。 The chairs and tables were left for me； and as the whole of the remaining furniture in the house consisted of a little crockery and a few clothes…boxes； it was not much trouble for the owners to move into the house of some relatives； and thus obtain a few silver rupees very easily。 Every foot of ground between the homes throughout the village is crammed with fruit trees； so that the sun and air have no chance of penetrating。 This must be very cool and pleasant in the dry season； but makes it damp and unhealthy at other times of the year。 Unfortunately I had come two months too soon； for the rains were not yet over； and mud and water were the prominent features of the country。
About a mile behind and to the east of the village the hills commence； but they are very barren； being covered with scanty coarse grass and scattered trees of the Melaleuca cajuputi； from the leaves of which the celebrated cajeput oil is made。 Such districts are absolutely destitute of interest for the zoologist。 A few miles further on rose higher mountains； apparently well covered with forest； but they were entirely uninhabited and trackless； and practically inaccessible to a traveller with limited time and means。 It became evident； therefore； that I must leave Cajeli for some better collecting ground； and finding a man who was going a few miles eastward to a village on the coast where he said there were hills and forest； I sent my boy Ali with him to explore and report on the capabilities of the district。 At the same time I arranged to go myself on a little excursion up a river which flows into the bay about five miles north of the town； to a village of the Alfuros； or indigenes； where I thought I might perhaps find a good collecting ground。
The Rajah of Cajeli； a good…tempered old man； offered to accompany me； as the village was under his government； and we started one morning early； in a long narrow boat with eight rowers。 In about two hours we entered the river； and commenced our inland journey against a very powerful current。 The stream was about a hundred yards wide； and was generally bordered with high grass； and occasionally bushes and palm…trees。 The country round was flat and more or less swampy； with scattered trees and shrubs。 At every bend we crossed the river to avoid the strength of the current； and arrived at our landing…place about four o'clock in a torrent of rain。 Here we waited for an hour； crouching under a leaky mat till the Alfuros arrived who had been sent for from the village to carry my baggage； when we set off along a path of whose extreme muddiness I had been warned before starting。
I turned up my trousers as high as possible； grasped a stoat stick to prevent awkward falls； and then boldly plunged into the first mud…hole； which was immediately succeeded by another and another。 The marl or mud and water was knee…deep with little intervals of firmer ground between； making progression exceedingly difficult。 The path was bordered with high rigid grass； brewing in dense clumps separated by water； so that nothing was to be gained by leaving the beaten track； and we were obliged to go floundering on； never knowing where our feet would rest； as the mud was now a few inches； now two feet deep； and the bottom very uneven； so that the foot slid down to the lowest part； and made it difficult to keep one's balance。 One step would be upon a concealed stick or log； almost dislocating the ankle； while the next would plunge into soft mud above the knee。 It rained all the way； and the long grass； six feet high； met over the path； so that we could not see a step of the way ahead； and received a double drenching。 Before we got to the village it was dark； and we had to cross over a small but deep and swollen stream by a narrow log of wood； which was more than a foot under water。 There was a slender shaking stick for a handrail； and it was nervous work feeling in the dark in the rushing water for a safe place on which to place the advanced foot。 After au hour of this most disagreeable and fatiguing walk we reached the village； followed by the men with our guns； ammunition； boxes； and bedding all more or less soaked。 We consoled ourselves with some hot tea and cold fowl； and went early to bed。
The next morning was clear and fine； and I set out soon after sunrise to explore the neighbourhood。 The village had evidently been newly formed； and consisted of a single straight street of very miserable huts totally deficient in every comfort； and as bare and cheerless inside as out。 It was situated on a little elevated patch of coarse gravelly soil； covered with the usual high rigid grass； which came up close to the backs of the houses。 At a short distance in several directions were patches of forest； but all on low and swampy ground。 I made one attempt along the only path I could find； but soon came upon a deep mud…hole； and found that I must walk barefoot if at all； so I returned and deferred further exploration till after breakfast。 I then went on into the jungle and found patches of sago…palms and a low forest vegetation； but the paths were everywhere full of mud…holes； and intersected by muddy streams and tracts of swamp； so that walking was not pleasurable； and too much attention to one's steps was not favourable to insect catching； which requires above everything freedom of motion。 I shot a few birds； and caught a few butterflies； but all were the same as I had already obtained about Cajeli。
On my return to the village I was told that the same kind of ground extended for many miles in every direction； and I at once decided that Wayapo was not a suitable place to stay at。 The next morning early we waded back again through the mud and long wet grass to our boat； and by mid…day reached Cajeli； where I waited Ali's return to decide on my future movements。 He came the following day； and gave a very bad account of Pelah； where he had been。 There was a little brush and trees along the beach； and hills inland covered with high grass and cajuputi treesmy dread and abhorrence。 On inquiring who could give me trustworthy information； I was referred to the Lieutenant of the Burghers； who had travelled all round the island； and was a very intelligent fellow。 I asked him to tell me if he knew of any part of Bouru where there was no 〃kusu…kusu；〃 as the coarse grass of the country is called。 He assured me that a good deal of the south coast was forest land； while along the north was almost entirely swamp and grassy hills。 After minute inquiries； I found that the forest country commenced at a place called Waypoti； only a few miles beyond Pelah； but that； as the coast beyond that place was exposed to the east monsoon and dangerous for praus； it was necessary to walk。 I immediately went to the Opzeiner； and he called the Rajah。 We had a consultation； and arranged for a boat to take me the next evening but one； to Pelah； whence I was to proceed on foot； the Orang…kaya going the day before to call the Alfuros to carry my baggage。
The journey was made as arranged； and on May 19th we arrived at Waypoti； having walked about ten miles along the beach； and through stony forest bordering the sea； with occasional plunges of a mile or two into the interior。 We found no village； but scattered houses and plantations； with hilly country pretty well covered with forest； and looking rather promising。 A low hut with a very rotten roof； showing the sky through in several places； was the only one