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on； fall of novel sights and strange adventures。 He who has made it is looked up to as an authority； and it remains with many the unachieved ambition of their lives。 I myself had hoped rather than expected ever to reach this 〃Ultima Thule〃 of the East： and when I found that I really could do so now； had I but courage to trust myself for a thousand miles' voyage in a Bugis prau； and for six or seven months among lawless traders and ferocious savages； I felt somewhat as I did when； a schoolboy； I was for the first time allowed to travel outside the stage…coach； to visit that scene of all that is strange and new and wonderful to young imaginations…London！
By the help of some kind friends I was introduced to the owner of one of the large praus which was to sail in a few days。 He was a Javanese half…caste； intelligent； mild； and gentlemanly in his manners； and had a young and pretty Dutch wife； whom he was going to leave behind during his absence。 When we talked about passage money he would fix no sum； but insisted on leaving it entirely to me to pay on my return exactly what I liked。 〃And then；〃 said he； 〃whether you give me one dollar or a hundred； I shall he satisfied； and shall ask no more。〃
The remainder of my stay was fully occupied in laying in stores； engaging servants； and making every other preparation for an absence of seven months from even the outskirts of civilization。 On the morning of December 13th； when we went on board at daybreak； it was raining hard。 We set sail and it came on to blow。 Our boat was lost astern； our sails damaged； and the evening found us hack again in Macassar harbour。 We remained there four days longer； owing to its raining all the time； thus rendering it impossible to dry and repair the huge mat sails。 All these dreary days I remained on board； and during the rare intervals when it didn't rain； made myself acquainted with our outlandish craft； some of the peculiarities of which I will now endeavour to describe。
It was a vessel of about seventy tons burthen； and shaped something like a Chinese junk。 The deck sloped considerably downward to the bows； which are thus the lowest part of the ship。 There were two large rudders； but instead of being planed astern they were hung on the quarters from strong cross beams； which projected out two or three feet on each side； and to which extent the deck overhung the sides of the vessel amidships。 The rudders were not hinged but hung with slings of rattan； the friction of which keeps them in any position in which they are placed； and thus perhaps facilitates steering。 The tillers were not on deck； but entered the vessel through two square openings into a lower or half deck about three feet high； in which sit the two steersmen。 In the after part of the vessel was a low poop； about three and a half feet high； which forms the captain's cabin； its furniture consisting of boxes； mats； and pillows。 In front of the poop and mainmast was a little thatched house on deck； about four feet high to the ridge； and one compartment of this； forming a cabin six and a half feet long by five and a half wide； I had all to myself； and it was the snuggest and most comfortable little place I ever enjoyed at sea。 It was entered by a low sliding door of thatch on one side； and had a very small window on the other。 The floor was of split bamboo； pleasantly elastic； raised six inches above the deck； so as to be quite dry。 It was covered with fine cane mats； for the manufacture of which Macassar is celebrated； against the further wall were arranged my guncase； insect…boxes； clothes； and books； my mattress occupied the middle； and next the door were my canteen； lamp； and little store of luxuries for the voyage； while guns； revolver； and hunting knife hung conveniently from the roof。 During these four miserable days I was quite jolly in this little snuggery more so than I should have been if confined the same time to the gilded and uncomfortable saloon of a first…class steamer。 Then； how comparatively sweet was everything on boardno paint； no tar； no new rope； （vilest of smells to the qualmish！） no grease； or oil； or varnish； but instead of these； bamboo and rattan； and coir rope and palm thatch； pure vegetable fibres； which smell pleasantly if they smell at all； and recall quiet scenes in the green and shady forest。
Our ship had two masts； if masts they can be called c which were great moveable triangles。 If in an ordinary ship you replace the shrouds and backstay by strong timbers； and take away the mast altogether； you have the arrangement adopted on board a prau。 Above my cabin； and resting on cross…beams attached to the masts； was a wilderness of yards and spars； mostly formed of bamboo。 The mainyard； an immense affair nearly a hundred feet long； was formed of many pieces of wood and bamboo bound together with rattans in an ingenious manner。 The sail carried by this was of an oblong shape； and was hung out of the centre； so that when the short end was hauled down on deck the long end mounted high in the air； making up for the lowness of the mast itself。 The foresail was of the same shape； but smaller。 Both these were of matting； and； with two jibs and a fore and aft sail astern of cotton canvas； completed our rig。
The crew consisted of about thirty men； natives of Macassar and the adjacent coasts and islands。 They were mostly young； and were short； broad…faced； good…humoured looking fellows。 Their dress consisted generally of a pair of trousers only； when at work； and a handkerchief twisted round the head； to which in the evening they would add a thin cotton jacket。 Four of the elder men were 〃jurumudis；〃 or steersmen； who had to squat （two at a
time） in the little steerage before described； changing every six hours。 Then there was an old man； the 〃juragan；〃 or captain； but who was really what we should call the first mate； he occupied the other half of the little house on deck。 There were about ten respectable men； Chinese or Bugis； whom our owner used to call 〃his own people。〃 He treated them very well； shared his meals with them； and spoke to them always with perfect politeness； yet they were most of them a kind of slave debtors； bound over by the police magistrate to work for him at mere nominal wages for a term of years till their debts were liquidated。 This is a Dutch institution in this part of the world； and seems to work well。 It is a great boon to traders； who can do nothing in these thinly… populated regions without trusting goods to agents and petty dealers； who frequently squander them away in gambling and debauchery。 The lower classes are almost all in a chronic state of debt。 The merchant trusts them again and again； till the amount is something serious； when he brings them to court and has their services allotted to him for its liquidation。 The debtors seem to think this no disgrace； but rather enjoy their freedom from responsibility； and the dignity of their position under a wealthy and well…known merchant。 They trade a little on their own account； and both parties seem to get on very well together。 The plan seems a more sensible one than that which we adopt； of effectually preventing a man from earning anything towards paying his debts by shutting him up in a jail。
My own servants were three in number。 Ali； the Malay boy whom I had picked up in Borneo； was my head man。 He had already been with me a year； could turn his hand to anything； and was quite attentive and trustworthy。 He was a good shot； and fond of shooting； and I had taught him to skin birds very well。 The second； named Baderoon； was a Macassar lad； also a pretty good boy； but a desperate gambler。 Under pretence of buying a house for his mother； and clothes； for himself； he had received four months' wages about a week before we sailed； and in a day or two gambled away every dollar of it。 He had come on board with no clothes； no betel； or tobacco； or salt fish； all which necessary articles I was obliged to send Ali to buy for him。 These two lads were about sixteen； I should suppose； the third was younger； a sharp little rascal named Baso； who had been with me a month or two； and had learnt to cook tolerably。 He was to fulfil the important office of cook and housekeeper； for I could not get any regular servants to go to such a terribly remote country； one might as well ask a chef de cuisine to go to Patagonia。
On the fifth day that I had spent on board （Dec。 15th） the rain ceased； and final preparations were made for starting。 Sails were dried and furled； boats were constantly coming and going； and stores for the voyage； fruit； vegetables； fish； and palm sugar； were taken on board。 In the afternoon two women arrived with a large party of friends and relations； and at parting there was a general noserubbing （the Malay kiss）； and some tears shed。 These were promising symptoms for our getting off the next day； and accordingly； at three in the morning； the owner came on board； the anchor was immediately weighed； and by four we set sail。 Just as we were fairly off and clear of the other praus； the old juragan repeated some prayers； all around responding with 〃Allah il Allah；〃 and a few strokes on a gong as an accompaniment； concluding with all wishing each other 〃Salaamat jalan；〃 a safe and happy