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u； perhaps forty or fifty miles distant； its mountains wreathed with clouds； while its lower lands were still invisible。 The afternoon was fine； and the wind got round again to the west； but although this is really the west monsoon； there is no regularity or steadiness about it； calms and breezes from every point of the compass continually occurring。 The captain； though nominally a Protestant； seemed to have no idea of Christmas…day as a festival。 Our dinner was of rice and curry as usual； and an extra glass of wine was all I could do to celebrate it。
Dec。 26th。Fine view of the mountains of Bouru； which we have now approached considerably。 Our crew seem rather a clumsy lot。 They do not walk the deck with the easy swing of English sailors； but hesitate and stagger like landsmen。 In the night the lower boom of our mainsail broke； and they were all the morning repairing it。 It consisted of two bamboos lashed together； thick end to thin； and was about seventy feet long。 The rigging and arrangement of these praus contrasts strangely with that of European vessels； in which the various ropes and spars； though much more numerous； are placed so as not to interfere with each other's action。 Here the case is quite different； for though there are no shrouds or stays to complicate the matter； yet scarcely anything can be done without first clearing something else out of the way。 The large sails cannot be shifted round to go on the other tack without first hauling down the jibs； and the booms of the fore and aft sails have to be lowered and completely detached to perform the same operation。 Then there are always a lot of ropes foul of each other； and all the sails can never be set （though they are so few） without a good part of their surface having the wind kept out of them by others。 Yet praus are much liked even by those who have had European vessels； because of their cheapness both in first cost and in keeping up； almost all repairs can be done by the crew； and very few European stores are required。
Dec。 28th。This day we saw the Banda group； the volcano first appearing；a perfect cone； having very much the outline of the Egyptian pyramids； and looking almost as regular。 In the evening the smoke rested over its summit like a small stationary cloud。 This was my first view of an active volcano； but pictures and panoramas have so impressed such things on one's mind； that when we at length behold them they seem nothing extraordinary。
Dec。 30th。Passed the island of Teor； and a group near it； which are very incorrectly marked on the charts。 Flying…fish were numerous to…day。 It is a smaller species than that of the Atlantic； and more active and elegant in its motions。 As they skim along the surface they turn on their sides； so as fully to display their beautiful fins； taking a flight of about a hundred yards； rising and falling in n most graceful manner。 At a little distance they exactly resemble swallows； and no one who sees them can doubt that they really do fly； not merely descend in an oblique direction from the height they gain by their first spring。 In the evening an aquatic bird； a species of booby （Sula fiber。） rested on our hen…coop； and was caught by the neck by one of my boys。
Dec。 31st；。At daybreak the Ke Islands （pronounced Kay） were in sight； where we are to stay a few days。 About noon we rounded the northern point； and endeavoured to coast along to the anchorage； but being now on the leeward side of the island； the wind came in violent irregular gusts； and then leaving us altogether； we were carried back by a strong current。 Just then two boats…load of natives appeared； and our owner having agreed with them to tow us into harbour； they tried to do so； assisted by our own boat； but could make no way。 We were therefore obliged to anchor in a very dangerous place on a rocky bottom； and we were engaged till nearly dark getting hawsers secured to some rocks under water。 The coast of Ke along which we had passed was very picturesque。 Light coloured limestone rocks rose abruptly from the water to the height of several hundred feet； everywhere broken into jutting peaks and pinnacles； weather…worn into sharp points and honeycombed surfaces； and clothed throughout with a most varied and luxuriant vegetation。 The cliffs above the sea offered to our view screw…pines and arborescent Liliaceae of strange forms； mingled with shrubs and creepers； while the higher slopes supported a dense growth of forest trees。 Here and there little bays and inlets presented beaches of dazzling whiteness。 The water was transparent as crystal； and tinged the rock…strewn slope which plunged steeply into its unfathomable depths with colours varying from emerald to lapis…lazuli。 The sea was calm as a lake； and the glorious sun of the tropics threw a flood of golden light over all。 The scene was to me inexpressibly delightful。 I was in a new world； and could dream of the wonderful productions hid in those rocky forests； and in those azure abysses。 But few European feet had ever trodden the shores I gazed upon its plants； and animals； and men were alike almost unknown； and I could not help speculating on what my wanderings there for a few days might bring to light。
CHAPTER XXIX
THE KE ISLANDS。
（JANUARY 1857）
THE native boats that had come to meet us were three or four in number； containing in all about fifty men。
They were long canoes； with the bow and stern rising up into a beak six or night feet high； decorated with shells and waving plumes of cassowaries hair。 I now had my first view of Papuans in their own country； and in less than five minutes was convinced that the opinion already arrived at by the examination of a few Timor and New Guinea slaves was substantially correct； and that the people I now had an opportunity of comparing side by side belonged to two of the most distinct and strongly marked races that the earth contains。 Had I been blind； I could have been certain that these islanders were not Malays。 The loud； rapid； eager tones； the incessant motion； the intense vital activity manifested in speech and action； are the very antipodes of the quiet； unimpulsive； unanimated Malay These Ke men came up singing and shouting； dipping their paddles deep in the water and throwing up clouds of spray； as they approached nearer they stood up in their canoes and increased their noise and gesticulations； and on coming alongside； without asking leave； and without a moment's hesitation； the greater part of them scrambled up on our deck just as if they were come to take possession of a captured vessel。 Then commenced a scene of indescribable confusion。 These forty black； naked； mop…headed savages seemed intoxicated with joy and excitement。 Not one of them could remain still for a moment。 Every individual of our crew was in turn surrounded and examined； asked for tobacco or arrack； grinned at and deserted for another。 All talked at once； and our captain was regularly mobbed by the chief men； who wanted to be employed to tow us in； and who begged vociferously to be paid in advance。 A few presents of tobacco made their eyes glisten； they would express their satisfaction by grins and shouts； by rolling on deck； or by a headlong leap overboard。 Schoolboys on an unexpected holiday； Irishmen at a fair； or mid…shipmen on shore； would give but a faint idea of the exuberant animal enjoyment of these people。
Under similar circumstances Malays could not behave as these Papuans did。 If they came on board a vessel （after asking permission）； not a word would be at first spoken； except a few compliments； and only after some time； and very cautiously； world any approach be made to business。 One would speak at a time； with a low voice and great deliberation； and the mode of making a bargain would be by quietly refusing all your offers； or even going away without saying another word about the matter； unless advanced your price to what they were willing to accept。 Our crew； many of whom had not made the voyage before； seemed quite scandalized at such unprecedented bad manners； and only very gradually made any approach to fraternization with the black fellows。 They reminded me of a party of demure and well…behaved children suddenly broken in upon by a lot of wild romping； riotous boys； whose conduct seems most extraordinary and very naughty。 These moral features are more striking and more conclusive of absolute diversity than oven the physical contrast presented by the two races； though that is sufficiently remarkable。 The sooty blackness of the skin； the mop…like head of frizzly hair； and； most important of all； the marked form of countenance of quite a different type from that of the Malay； are what we cannot believe to result from mere climatal or other modifying influences on one and the same race。 The Malay face is of the Mongolian type； broad and somewhat flat。 The brows are depressed； the mouth wide； but not projecting； and the nose small and well formed but for the great dilatation of the nostrils。 The face is smooth； and rarely develops the trace of a beard； the hair black； coarse； and perfectly straight。 The Papuan； on the other hand； has a face which we may say is compressed and projecting。 The brows are protuberant and overhanging； the mouth large and prominent