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xclusively confined to the Malay islands。 In shape it resembles a very large ant； more than an inch long； and of a purple black colour。 Like an ant also it is wingless； and is generally found ascending trees； passing around the trunks in a spiral direction when approached； to avoid capture； so that it requires a sudden run and active fingers to secure a specimen。 This species emits the usual fetid odour of the ground beetles。 My collections during our four days' stay at Ke were as follow： Birds； 13 species； insects； 194 species； and 3 kinds of land… shells。
There are two kinds of people inhabiting these islandsthe indigenes； who have the Papuan characters strongly marked； and who are pagans； and a mixed race； who are nominally Mahometans； and wear cotton clothing； while the former use only a waist cloth of cotton or bark。 These Mahometans are said to have been driven out of Banda by the early European settlers。 They were probably a brown race； more allied to the Malays； and their mixed descendants here exhibit great variations of colour； hair； and features； graduating between the Malay and Papuan types。 It is interesting to observe the influence of the early Portuguese trade with these countries in the words of their language； which still remain in use even among these remote and savage islanders。 〃Lenco〃 for handkerchief； and 〃faca〃 for knife； are here used to the exclusion of the proper Malay terms。 The Portuguese and Spaniards were truly wonderful conquerors and colonizers。 They effected more rapid changes in the countries they conquered than any other nations of modern times； resembling the Romans in their power of impressing their own language； religion； and manners on rode and barbarous tribes。
The striking contrast of character between these people and the Malays is exemplified in many little traits。 One day when I was rambling in the forest； an old man stopped to look at me catching an insect。 He stood very quiet till I had pinned and put it away in my collecting box； when he could contain himself no longer； but bent almost double； and enjoyed a hearty roar of laughter。 Every one will recognise this as a true negro trait。 A Malay would have stared； and asked with a tone of bewilderment what I was doing； for it is but little in his nature to laugh； never heartily； and still less at or in the presence of a stranger； to whom； however； his disdainful glances or whispered remarks are less agreeable than the most boisterous open expression of merriment。 The women here were not so much frightened at strangers； or made to keep themselves so much secluded as among the Malay races； the children were more merry and had the 〃nigger grin；〃 while the noisy confusion of tongues among the men； and their excitement on very ordinary occasions； are altogether removed from the general taciturnity and reserve of the Malay。
The language of the Ke people consists of words of one； two； or three syllables in about equal proportions； and has many aspirated and a few guttural sounds。 The different villages have slight differences of dialect； but they are mutually intelligible； and； except in words that have evidently been introduced during a long…continued commercial intercourse； seem to have no affinity whatever with the Malay languages。
Jan。 6th。…The small boats being finished； we sailed for Aru at 4 P。M。； and as we left the shores of Ke had a line view of its rugged and mountainous character； ranges of hills； three or four thousand feet high； stretching southwards as far as the eye could reach； everywhere covered with a lofty； dense； and unbroken forest。 We had very light winds； and it therefore took us thirty hours to make the passage of sixty miles to the low； or flat； but equally forest…covered Aru Islands； where we anchored in the harbour of Dobbo at nine in the evening of the next day。
My first voyage in a prau being thus satisfactorily terminated； I must； before taking leave of it for some months； bear testimony to the merits of the queer old…world vessel。 Setting aside all ideas of danger； which is probably； after all； not more than in any other craft； I must declare that I have never； either before or since； made a twenty days' voyage so pleasantly； or perhaps； more correctly speaking； with so little discomfort。 This I attribute chiefly to having my small cabin on deck； and entirely to myself； to having my own servants to wait upon me； and to the absence of all those marine…store smells of paint； pitch； tallow； and new cordage； which are to me insupportable。 Something is also to be put down to freedom from all restraint of dress； hours of meals； &c。； and to the civility and obliging disposition of the captain。 I had agreed to have my meals with him； but whenever I wished it I had them in my own berth； and at what hours I felt inclined。 The crew were all civil and good…tempered； and with very little discipline everything went on smoothly； and the vessel was kept very clean and in pretty good order； so that on the whole I was much delighted with the trip； and was inclined to rate the luxuries of the semi…barbarous prau as surpassing those of the most magnificent screw…steamer； that highest result of our civilisation。
CHAPTER XXX
THE ARU ISLANDSRESIDENCE IN DOBBO
（JANUARY TO MARCH 1857。）
On the 8th of January； 1857； I landed at Dobbo； the trading settlement of the Bugis and Chinese； who annually visit the Aru Islands。 It is situated on the small island of Wamma； upon a spit of sand which projects out to the north； and is just wide enough to contain three rows of houses。 Though at first sight a most strange and desolate…looking place to build a village on； it has many advantages。 There is a clear entrance from the west among the coral reefs that border the land； and there is good anchorage for vessels； on one side of the village or the other； in both the east and west monsoons。 Being fully exposed to the sea…breezes in three directions it is healthy； and the soft sandy heath offers great facilities for hauling up the praus； in order to secure them from sea…worms and prepare them for the homeward voyage。 At its southern extremity the sand…bank merges in the beach of the island； and is backed by a luxuriant growth of lofty forest。 The houses are of various sizes； but are all built after one pattern； being merely large thatched sheds； a small portion of which； next the entrance； is used as a dwelling； while the rest is parted oft； and often divided by one or two floors； in order better to stow away merchandise and native produce。
As we had arrived early in the season； most of the houses were empty； and the place looked desolate in the extremethe whole of the inhabitants who received us on our landing amounting to about half…a…dozen Bugis and Chinese。 Our captain； Herr Warzbergen； had promised to obtain a house for me； but unforeseen difficulties presented themselves。 One which was to let had no roof； and the owner； who was building it on speculation； could not promise to finish it in less than a month。 Another； of which the owner was dead； and which I might therefore take undisputed possession of as the first comer； wanted considerable repairs； and no one could be found to do the work； although about four times its value was offered。 The captain； therefore； recommended me to take possession of a pretty good house near his own； whose owner was not expected for some weeks； and as I was anxious to be on shore； I immediately had it cleared out； and by evening had all my things housed； and was regularly installed as an inhabitant of Dobbo。 I had brought with me a cane chair； and a few light boards； which were soon rigged up into a table and shelves。 A broad bamboo bench served as sofa and bedstead； my boxes were conveniently arranged； my mats spread on the floor； a window cut in the palm…leaf wall to light my table； and though the place was as miserable and gloomy a shed as could be imagined； I felt as contented as if I had obtained a well…furnished mansion； and looked forward to a month's residence in it with unmixed satisfaction。
The next morning； after an early breakfast； I set off to explore the virgin forests of Aru； anxious to set my mind at rest as to the treasures they were likely to yield； and the probable success of my long…meditated expedition。 A little native imp was our guide； seduced by the gift of a German knife； value three… halfpence； and my Macassar boy Baderoon brought his chopper to clear the path if necessary。
We had to walk about half a mile along the beach； the ground behind the village being mostly swampy； and then turned into the forest along a path which leads to the native village of Wamma； about three miles off on the other side of the island。 The path was a narrow one； and very little used； often swampy and obstructed by fallen trees； so that after about a mile we lost it altogether； our guide having turned back； and we were obliged to follow his example。 In the meantime； however； I had not been idle； and my day's captures determined the success of my journey in an entomological point of view。 I had taken about thirty species of butterflies； more than I had ever captured in a day since leaving the prolific banks of the Amazon； and among them were many most rare and beautiful insects； hitherto