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he prolific banks of the Amazon; and among them were many most rare and beautiful insects; hitherto only known by a few specimens from New Guinea。 The large and handsome spectre butterfly; Hestia durvillei; the pale…winged peacock butterfly; Drusilla catops; and the most brilliant and wonderful of the clear…winged moths; Cocytia durvillei; were especially interesting; as well; as several little 〃blues;〃 equalling in brilliancy and beauty anything the butterfly world can produce。 In the other groups of insects I was not so successful; but this was not to be wondered at in a mere exploring ramble; when only what is most conspicuous and novel attracts the attention。 Several pretty beetles; a superb 〃bug;〃 and a few nice land… shells were obtained; and I returned in the afternoon well satisfied with my first trial of the promised land。
The next two days were so wet and windy that there was no going out; but on the succeeding one the sun shone brightly; and I had the good fortune to capture one of the most magnificent insects the world contains; the great bird…winged butterfly; Ornithoptera Poseidon。 I trembled with excitement as I saw it coming majestically towards me; and could hardly believe I had really succeeded in my stroke till I had taken it out of the net and was gazing; lost in admiration; at the velvet black and brilliant green of its wings; seven inches across; its bolder body; and crimson breast。 It is true I had seen similar insects in cabinets at home; but it is quite another thing to capture such oneself…to feel it struggling between one's fingers; and to gaze upon its fresh and living beauty; a bright gem shirring out amid the silent gloom of a dark and tangled forest。 The village of Dobbo held that evening at least one contented man。
Jan。 26th。Having now been here a fortnight; I began to understand a little of the place and its peculiarities。 Praus continually arrived; and the merchant population increased almost daily。 Every two or three days a fresh house was opened; and the necessary repairs made。 In every direction men were bringing in poles; bamboos; rattans; and the leaves of the nipa palm to construct or repair the walls; thatch; doors; and shutters of their houses; which they do with great celerity。 Some of the arrivals were Macassar men or Bugis; but more from the small island of Goram; at the east end of Ceram; whose inhabitants are the petty traders of the far East。 Then the natives of Aru come in from the other side of the islands (called here 〃blakang tana;〃 or 〃back of the country〃) with the produce they have collected during the preceding six months; and which they now sell to the traders; to some of whom they are most likely in debt。
Almost all; or I may safely say all; the new arrivals pay me a visit; to see with their own eyes the unheard…of phenomenon of a person come to stay at Dobbo who does not trade! They have their own ideas of the uses that may possibly be made of stuffed birds; beetles; and shells which are not the right shellsthat is; 〃mother…of…pearl。〃 They every day bring me dead and broken shells; such as l can pick up by hundreds on the beach; and seem quite puzzled and distressed when I decline them。 If; however; there are any snail shells among a lot; I take them; and ask for morea principle of selection so utterly unintelligible to them; that they give it up in despair; or solve the problem by imputing hidden medical virtue to those which they see me preserve so carefully。
These traders are all of the Malay race; or a mixture of which Malay is the chef ingredient; with the exception of a few Chinese。 The natives of Aru; on the other hand; are; Papuans; with black or sooty brown skims; woolly or frizzly hair; thick… ridged prominent noses; and rather slender limbs。 Most of them wear nothing but a waist…cloth; and a few of them may be seen all day long wandering about the half…deserted streets of Dobbo offering their little bit of merchandise for sale。
Living in a trader's house everything is brought to me as well as to the rest;bundles of smoked tripang; or 〃beche de mer;〃 looking like sausages which have been rolled in mud and then thrown up the chimney; dried sharks' fins; mother…of…pearl shells; as well as birds of Paradise; which; however; are so dirty and so badly preserved that I have as yet found no specimens worth purchasing。 When I hardly look at the articles; and make no offer for them; they seem incredulous; and; as if fearing they have misunderstood me; again offer them; and declare what they want in returnknives; or tobacco; or sago; or handkerchiefs。 I then have to endeavour to explain; through any interpreter who may be at hand; that neither tripang nor pearl oyster shells have any charms for me; and that I even decline to speculate in tortoiseshell; but that anything eatable I will buy… …fish; or turtle; or vegetables of any sort。 Almost the only food; however; that we can obtain with any regularity; are fish and cockles of very good quality; and to supply our daily wants it is absolutely necessary to be always provided with four articlestobacco; knives; sago…cakes; and Dutch copper doits because when the particular thing asked for is not forthcoming; the fish pass on to the next house; and we may go that day without a dinner。 It is curious to see the baskets and buckets used here。 The cockles are brought in large volute shells; probably the Cymbium ducale; while gigantic helmet…shells; a species of Cassis; suspended by a rattan handle; form the vessels in which fresh water is daily carried past my door。 It is painful to a naturalist to see these splendid shells with their inner whorls ruthlessly broken away to fit them for their ignoble use。
My collections; however; got on but slowly; owing to the unexpectedly bad weather; violent winds with heavy showers having been so continuous as only to give me four good collecting days out of the first sixteen I spent here。 Yet enough had been collected to show me that with time and fine weather I might expect to do something good。 From the natives I obtained some very fine insects and a few pretty land…shells; and of the small number of birds yet shot more than half were known New Guinea species; and therefore certainly rare in European collections; while the remainder were probably new。 In one respect my hopes seemed doomed to be disappointed。 I had anticipated the pleasure of myself preparing fine specimens of the Birds of Paradise; but I now learnt that they are all at this season out of plumage; and that it is in September and October that they have the long plumes of yellow silky feathers in full perfection。 As all the praus return in July; I should not be able to spend that season in Aru without remaining another whole year; which was out of the question。 I was informed; however; that the small red species; the 〃King Bird of Paradise;〃 retains its plumage at all seasons; and this I might therefore hope to get。
As I became familiar with the forest scenery of the island; (perceived it to possess some characteristic features that distinguished it from that of Borneo and Malacca; while; what is very singular and interesting; it recalled to my mind the half… forgotten impressions of the forests of Equatorial America。 For example; the palms were much more abundant than I had generally found them in the East; more generally mingled with the other vegetation; more varied in form and aspect; and presenting some of those lofty and majestic smooth…stemmed; pinnate…leaved species which recall the Uauassu (Attalea speciosa) of the Amazon; but which I had hitherto rarely met with in the Malayan islands。
In animal life the immense number and variety of spiders and of lizards were circumstances that recalled the prolific regions of south America; more especially the abundance and varied colours of the little jumping spiders which abound on flowers and foliage; and are often perfect gems of beauty。 The web…spinning species were also more numerous than I had ever seen them; and were a great annoyance; stretching their nets across the footpaths just about the height of my face; and the threads composing these are so strong and glutinous as to require much trouble to free oneself from them。 Then their inhabitants; great yellow…spotted monsters with bodies two inches long; and legs in proportion; are not pleasant to o run one's nose against while pursuing some gorgeous butterfly; or gazing aloft in search of some strange…voiced bird。 I soon found it necessary not only to brush away the web; but also to destroy the spinner; for at first; having cleared the path one day; I found the next morning that the industrious insects had spread their nets again in the very same places。
The lizards were equally striking by their numbers; variety; and the situations in which they were found。 The beautiful blue… tailed species so abundant in Ke was not seen here。 The Aru lizards are more varied but more sombre in their coloursshades of green; grey; brown; and even black; being very frequently seen。 Every shrub and herbaceous plant was alive with them; every rotten trunk or dead branch served as a station for some of these active little insect…hunters; who; I fear; to satisfy their gross appetites; destroy many gems of the insect world; whi