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and my clumsy men let the mainsail get taken aback and nearly upset us； tearing the sail； and； what was worse； losing an hour's fair wind。 The night was calm； and we made little progress。
On the 22d we had light head…winds。 A little before noon we passed； with the assistance of our oars； the Paciencia Straits； the narrowest part of the channel between Batchian and Gilolo。 These were well named by the early Portuguese navigators； as the currents are very strong； and there are so many eddies； that even with a fair wind vessels are often quite unable to pass through them。 In the afternoon a strong north wind （dead ahead） obliged us to anchor twice。 At nigh it was calm； and we crept along slowly with our oars。
On the 23d we still had the wind ahead； or calms。 We then crossed over again to the mainland of Gilolo by the advice of our Gani men； who knew the coast well。 Just as we got across we had another northerly squall with rain； and had to anchor on the edge of a coral reef for the night。 I called up my men about three on the morning of the 24th； but there was no wind to help us； and we rowed along slowly。 At daybreak there was a fair breeze from the south； but it lasted only an hour。 All the rest of the day we had nothing but calms； light winds ahead； and squalls； and made very little progress。
On the 25th we drifted out to the middle of the channel； but made no progress onward。 In the afternoon we sailed and rowed to the south end of Kaióa； and by midnight reached the village。 I determined to stay here a few days to rest and recruit； and in hopes of getting better weather。 I bought some onions and other vegetables； and plenty of eggs； and my men baked fresh sago cakes。 I went daily to my old hunting…ground in search of insects； but with very poor success。 It was now wet； squally weather； and there appeared a stagnation of insect life。 We Staved five days； during which time twelve persons died in the village； mostly from simple intermittent fever； of the treatment of which the natives are quite ignorant。 During the whole of this voyage I had suffered greatly from sunburnt lips； owing to having exposed myself on deck all day to loon after our safety among the shoals and reefs near Waigiou。 The salt in the air so affected them that they would not heal； but became excessively painful； and bled at the slightest touch； and for a long time it was with great difficulty I could eat at all； being obliged to open my mouth very wide； and put in each mouthful with the greatest caution。 I kept them constantly covered with ointment； which was itself very disagreeable； and they caused me almost constant pain for more than a month； as they did not get well till I had returned to Ternate； and was able to remain a week indoors。
A boat which left for Ternate； the day after we arrived； was obliged to return the next day； on account of bad weather。 On the 31st we went out to the anchorage at the mouth of the harbour； so as to be ready to start at the first favourable opportunity。
On the 1st of November I called up my men at one in the morning； and we started with the tide in our favour。 Hitherto it had usually been calm at night； but on this occasion we had a strong westerly squall with rain； which turned our prau broadside； and obliged us to anchor。 When it had passed we went on rowing all night； but the wind ahead counteracted the current in our favour； and we advanced but little。 Soon after sunrise the wind became stronger and more adverse； and as we had a dangerous lee…shore which we could not clear； we had to put about and get an offing to the W。S。W。 This series of contrary winds and bad weather ever since we started； not having had a single day of fair wind； was very remarkable。 My men firmly believed there was something unlucky in the boat； and told me I ought to have had a certain ceremony gone through before starting； consisting of boring a hole in the bottom and pouring some kind of holy oil through it。 It must be remembered that this was the season of the south…east monsoon； and yet we had not had even half a day's south…east wind since we left Waigiou。 Contrary winds； squalls； and currents drifted us about the rest of the day at their pleasure。 The night was equally squally and changeable； and kept us hard at work taking in and making sail； and rowing in the intervals。
Sunrise on the 2d found us in the middle of the ten…mile channel between Kaióa and Makian。 Squalls and showers succeeded each other during the morning。 At noon there was a dead calm； after which a light westerly breeze enabled us to reach a village on Makian in the evening。 Here I bought some pumelos （Citrus decumana）； kanary…nuts； and coffee； and let my men have a night's sleep。
The morning of the 3d was fine； and we rowed slowly along the coast of Makian。 The captain of a small prau at anchor； seeing me on deck and guessing who I was； made signals for us to stop； and brought me a letter from Charles Allen； who informed me he had been at Ternate twenty days； and was anxiously waiting my arrival。 This was good news； as I was equally anxious about him； and it cheered up my spirits。 A light southerly wind now sprung up； and we thought we were going to have fine weather。 It soon changed； however； to its old quarter； the west； dense clouds gathered over the sky； and in less than half an hour we had the severest squall we had experienced during our whole voyage。 Luckily we got our great mainsail down in time； or the consequences might have been serious。 It was a regular little hurricane； and my old Bugis steersman began shouting out to 〃Allah！ il Allah！〃 to preserve us。 We could only keep up our jib； which was almost blown to rags； but by careful handling it kept us before the wind； and the prau behaved very well。 Our small boat （purchased at Gani） was towing astern； and soon got full of water； so that it broke away and we saw no more of it。 In about an hour the fury of the wind abated a little； and in two more we were able to hoist our mainsail； reefed and half…mast high。 Towards evening it cleared up and fell calm； and the sea； which had been rather high； soon went down。 Not being much of a seaman myself I had been considerably alarmed； and even the old steersman assured me he had never been in a worse squall all his life。 He was now more than ever confirmed in his opinion of the unluckiness of the boat； and in the efficiency of the holy oil which all Bugis praus had poured through their bottoms。 As it was； he imputed our safety and the quick termination of the squall entirely to his own prayers； saying with a laugh； 〃Yes； that's the way we always do on board our praus； when things are at the worst we stand up and shout out our prayers as loud as we can； and then Tuwan Allah helps us。〃
After this it took us two days more to reach Ternate； having our usual calms； squalls； and head…winds to the very last； and once having to return back to our anchorage owing to violent gusts of wind just as we were close to the town。 Looking at my whole voyage in this vessel from the time when I left Goram in May； it will appear that rely experiences of travel in a native prau have not been encouraging。 My first crew ran away； two men were lost for a month on a desert island； we were ten times aground on coral reefs； we lost four anchors； the sails were devoured by rats； the small boat was lost astern； we were thirty…eight days on the voyage home； which should not have taken twelve； we were many times short of food and water； we had no compass…lamp； owing to there not being a drop of oil in Waigiou when we left； and to crown all； during the whole of our voyages from Goram by Ceram to Waigiou； and from Waigiou to Ternate； occupying in all seventy… eight days； or only twelve days short of three months （all in what was supposed to be the favourable season）； we had not one single day of fair wind。 We were always close braced up； always struggling against wind； tide； and leeway； and in a vessel that would scarcely sail nearer than eight points from the wind。 Every seaman will admit that my first voyage in my own boat was a most unlucky one。
Charles Allen had obtained a tolerable collection of birds and insects at Mysol； but far less than be would have done if I had not been so unfortunate as to miss visiting him。 After waiting another week or two till he was nearly starved； he returned to Wahai in Ceram； and heard； much to his surprise； that I had left a fortnight before。 He was delayed there more than a month before he could get back to the north side of Mysol； which he found a much better locality； but it was not yet the season for the Paradise Birds； and before he had obtained more than a few of the common sort； the last prau was ready to leave for Ternate； and he was obliged to take the opportunity； as he expected I would be waiting there for him。
This concludes the record of my wanderings。 I next went to Timor； and afterwards to Bourn； Java； and Sumatra； which places have already been described。 Charles Allen made a voyage to New Guinea； a short account of which will be given in my next chapter on the Birds of Paradise。 On his return he went to the Sula Islands； and made a very interesting collection which served to determine the limits of the zoological group of Celebes； as