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was fast asleep before my head touched the pillow。
In the morning my tutor （he was a student of the Cracow
University） woke me up early； and as we were dressing remarked：
〃There seems to be a lot of people staying in this hotel。 I have
heard a noise of talking up till 11 o'clock？〃 This statement
surprised me； I had heard no noise whatever； having slept like a
top。
We went downstairs into the long and narrow dining…room with its
long and narrow table。 There were two rows of plates on it。 At
one of the many uncurtained windows stood a tall bony man with a
bald head set off by a bunch of black hair above each ear and
with a long black beard。 He glanced up from the paper he was
reading and seemed genuinely astonished at our intrusion。 By…
and…by more men came in。 Not one of them looked like a tourist。
Not a single woman appeared。 These men seemed to know each other
with some intimacy； but I cannot say they were a very talkative
lot。 The bald…headed man sat down gravely at the head of the
table。 It all had the air of a family party。 By…and…by； from
one of the vigorous servant…girls in national costume； we
discovered that the place was really a boarding…house for some
English engineers engaged at the works of the St。 Gothard Tunnel；
and I could listen my fill to the sounds of the English language；
as far as it is used at a breakfast…table by men who do not
believe in wasting many words on the mere amenities of life。
This was my first contact with British mankind apart from the
tourist kind seen in the hotels of Zurich and Lucernethe kind
which has no real existence in a workaday world。 I know now that
the bald…headed man spoke with a strong Scotch accent。 I have
met many of his kind since； both ashore and afloat。 The second
engineer of the steamer 〃Mavis〃； for instance； ought to have been
his twin brother。 I cannot help thinking that he really was；
though for some reasons of his own he assured me that he never
had a twin brother。 Anyway the deliberate bald…headed Scot with
the coal…black beard appeared to my boyish eyes a very romantic
and mysterious person。
We slipped out unnoticed。 Our mapped…out route led over the
Furca Pass towards the Rhone Glacier； with the further intention
of following down the trend of the Hasli Valley。 The sun was
already declining when we found ourselves on the top of the pass；
and the remark alluded to was presently uttered。
We sat down by the side of the road to continue the argument
begun half a mile or so before。 I am certain it was an argument
because I remember perfectly how my tutor argued and how without
the power of reply I listened with my eyes fixed obstinately on
the ground。 A stir on the road made me look upand then I saw
my unforgettable Englishman。 There are acquaintances of later
years； familiars； shipmates； whom I remember less clearly。 He
marched rapidly towards the east （attended by a hang…dog Swiss
guide） with the mien of an ardent and fearless traveller。 He was
clad in a knickerbocker suit； but as at the same time he wore
short socks under his laced boots； for reasons which whether
hygienic or conscientious were surely imaginative； his calves
exposed to the public gaze and to the tonic air of high
altitudes； dazzled the beholder by the splendour of their marble…
like condition and their rich tone of young ivory。 He was the
leader of a small caravan。 The light of a headlong； exalted
satisfaction with the world of men and the scenery of mountains
illumined his clean…cut； very red face； his short； silver…white
whiskers； his innocently eager and triumphant eyes。 In passing
he cast a glance of kindly curiosity and a friendly gleam of big；
sound； shiny teeth towards the man and the boy sitting like dusty
tramps by the roadside； with a modest knapsack lying at their
feet。 His white calves twinkled sturdily； the uncouth Swiss
guide with a surly mouth stalked like an unwilling bear at his
elbow； a small train of three mules followed in single file the
lead of this inspiring enthusiast。 Two ladies rode past one
behind the other； but from the way they sat I saw only their
calm； uniform backs； and the long ends of blue veils hanging
behind far down over their identical hat…brims。 His two
daughters surely。 An industrious luggage…mule； with unstarched
ears and guarded by a slouching； sallow driver； brought up the
rear。 My tutor； after pausing for a look and a faint smile；
resumed his earnest argument。
I tell you it was a memorable year！ One does not meet such an
Englishman twice in a lifetime。 Was he in the mystic ordering of
common events the ambassador of my future； sent out to turn the
scale at a critical moment on the top of an Alpine pass； with the
peaks of the Bernese Oberland for mute and solemn witnesses？ His
glance； his smile； the unextinguishable and comic ardour of his
striving…forward appearance helped me to pull myself together。
It must be stated that on that day and in the exhilarating
atmosphere of that elevated spot I had been feeling utterly
crushed。 It was the year in which I had first spoken aloud of my
desire to go to sea。 At first like those sounds that； ranging
outside the scale to which men's ears are attuned； remain
inaudible to our sense of hearing； this declaration passed
unperceived。 It was as if it had not been。 Later on； by trying
various tones I managed to arouse here and there a surprised
momentary attentionthe 〃What was that funny noise？〃 sort of
inquiry。 Later on it was〃Did you hear what that boy said？
What an extraordinary outbreak！〃 Presently a wave of scandalised
astonishment （it could not have been greater if I had announced
the intention of entering a Carthusian monastery） ebbing out of
the educational and academical town of Cracow spread itself over
several provinces。 It spread itself shallow but far…reaching。
It stirred up a mass of remonstrance； indignation； pitying
wonder； bitter irony and downright chaff。 I could hardly breathe
under its weight； and certainly had no words for an answer。
People wondered what Mr。 T。B。 would do now with his worrying
nephew and； I dare say； hoped kindly that he would make short
work of my nonsense。
What he did was to come down all the way from Ukraine to have it
out with me and to judge by himself； unprejudiced； impartial and
just； taking his stand on the ground of wisdom and affection。 As
far as is possible for a boy whose power of expression is still
unformed I opened the secret of my thoughts to him and he in
return allowed me a glimpse into his mind and heart； the first
glimpse of an inexhaustible and noble treasure of clear thought
and warm feeling； which through life was to be mine to draw upon
with a never…deceived love and confidence。 Practically； after
several exhaustive conversations； he concluded that he would not
have me later on reproach him for having spoiled my life by an
unconditional opposition。 But I must take time for serious
reflection。 And I must not only think of myself but of others；
weigh the claims of affection and conscience against my own
sincerity of purpose。 〃Think well what it all means in the
larger issues； my boy；〃 he exhorted me finally with special
friendliness。 〃And meantime try to get the best place you can at
the yearly examinations。〃
The scholastic year came to an end。 I took a fairly good place
at the exams。； which for me （for certain reasons） happened to be
a more difficult task than for other boys。 In that respect I
could enter with a good conscience upon that holiday which was
like a long visit pour prendre conge of the mainland of old
Europe I was to see so little of for the next four and twenty
years。 Such； however； was not the avowed purpose of that tour。
It was rather； I suspect； planned in order to distract and occupy
my thoughts in other directions。 Nothing had been said for
months of my going to sea。 But my attachment to my young tutor
and his influence over me were so well known that he must have
received a confidential mission to talk me out of my romantic
folly。 It was an excellently appropriate arrangement； as neither
he nor I had ever had a single glimpse of the sea in our lives。
That was to come by…and…by for both of us in Venice； from the
outer shore of Lido。 Meantime he had taken his mission to heart
so well that I began to feel crus