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until he sees the cart smashed up。 Then he is very apologetic； it is true。
But of what use is that？ As he is usually of the size and strength of a
young bull； and his human companion is generally a weak…kneed old man
or woman； or a small child； he has his way。 The greatest punishment his
proprietor can inflict upon him is to leave him at home； and take the cart
out alone。 But your German is too kind…hearted to do this often。
That he is harnessed to the cart for anybody's pleasure but his own it is
impossible to believe； and I am confident that the German peasant plans
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the tiny harness and fashions the little cart purely with the hope of
gratifying his dog。 In other countriesin Belgium； Holland and FranceI
have seen these draught dogs ill… treated and over…worked； but in Germany；
never。 Germans abuse animals shockingly。 I have seen a German stand
in front of his horse and call it every name he could lay his tongue to。
But the horse did not mind it。 I have seen a German； weary with abusing
his horse； call to his wife to come out and assist him。 When she came； he
told her what the horse had done。 The recital roused the woman's temper
to almost equal heat with his own； and standing one each side of the poor
beast； they both abused it。 They abused its dead mother； they insulted its
father； they made cutting remarks about its personal appearance； its
intelligence； its moral sense； its general ability as a horse。 The animal
bore the torrent with exemplary patience for awhile； then it did the best
thing possible to do under the circumstances。 Without losing its own
temper； it moved quietly away。 The lady returned to her washing； and the
man followed it up the street； still abusing it。
A kinder…hearted people than the Germans there is no need for。 Cruelty
to animal or child is a thing almost unknown in the land。 The whip with
them is a musical instrument； its crack is heard from morning to night； but
an Italian coachman that in the streets of Dresden I once saw use it was
very nearly lynched by the indignant crowd。 Germany is the only
country in Europe where the traveller can settle himself comfortably in his
hired carriage； confident that his gentle； willing friend between the shafts
will be neither over…worked nor cruelly treated。
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CHAPTER XI
Black Forest House： and the sociability thereinIts perfume
George positively declines to remain in bed after four o'clock in the
morningThe road one cannot missMy peculiar extra instinct An
ungrateful partyHarris as a scientistHis cheery confidence The village：
where it was； and where it ought to have been George： his planWe
promenade a la FrancaisThe German coachman asleep and awakeThe
man who spreads the English language abroad。
There was one night when； tired out and far from town or village； we
slept in a Black Forest farmhouse。 The great charm about the Black
Forest house is its sociability。 The cows are in the next room； the horses
are upstairs； the geese and ducks are in the kitchen； while the pigs； the
children； and the chickens live all over the place。
You are dressing； when you hear a grunt behind you。
〃Good…morning！ Don't happen to have any potato peelings in here？
No； I see you haven't； good…bye。〃
Next there is a cackle； and you see the neck of an old hen stretched
round the corner。
〃Fine morning； isn't it？ You don't mind my bringing this worm of
mine in here； do you？ It is so difficult in this house to find a room where
one can enjoy one's food with any quietness。 From a chicken I have
always been a slow eater； and when a dozenthere； I thought they
wouldn't leave me alone。 Now they'll all want a bit。 You don't mind my
getting on the bed； do you？ Perhaps here they won't notice me。〃
While you are dressing various shock heads peer in at the door； they
evidently regard the room as a temporary menagerie。 You cannot tell
whether the heads belong to boys or girls； you can only hope they are all
male。 It is of no use shutting the door； because there is nothing to fasten
it by； and the moment you are gone they push it open again。 You
breakfast as the Prodigal Son is generally represented feeding： a pig or
two drop in to keep you company； a party of elderly geese criticise you
from the door； you gather from their whispers； added to their shocked
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expression； that they are talking scandal about you。 Maybe a cow will
condescend to give a glance in。
This Noah's Ark arrangement it is； I suppose； that gives to the Black
Forest home its distinctive scent。 It is not a scent you can liken to any
one thing。 It is as if you took roses and Limburger cheese and hair oil；
some heather and onions； peaches and soapsuds； together with a dash of
sea air and a corpse； and mixed them up together。 You cannot define any
particular odour； but you feel they are all thereall the odours that the
world has yet discovered。 People who live in these houses are fond of
this mixture。 They do not open the window and lose any of it； they keep
it carefully bottled up。 If you want any other scent； you can go outside
and smell the wood violets and the pines； inside there is the house； and
after a while； I am told； you get used to it； so that you miss it； and are
unable to go to sleep in any other atmosphere。
We had a long walk before us the next day； and it was our desire；
therefore； to get up early； even so early as six o'clock； if that could be
managed without disturbing the whole household。 We put it to our
hostess whether she thought this could be done。 She said she thought it
could。 She might not be about herself at that time； it was her morning for
going into the town； some eight miles off； and she rarely got back much
before seven； but； possibly； her husband or one of the boys would be
returning home to lunch about that hour。 Anyhow； somebody should be
sent back to wake us and get our breakfast。
As it turned out； we did not need any waking。 We got up at four； all
by ourselves。 We got up at four in order to get away from the noise and
the din that was making our heads ache。 What time the Black Forest
peasant rises in the summer time I am unable to say； to us they appeared to
be getting up all night。 And the first thing the Black Forester does when
he gets up is to put on a pair of stout boots with wooden soles； and take a
constitutional round the house。 Until he has been three times up and
down the stairs； he does not feel he is up。 Once fully awake himself； the
next thing he does is to go upstairs to the stables； and wake up a horse。
（The Black Forest house being built generally on the side of a steep hill；
the ground floor is at the top； and the hay…loft at the bottom。） Then the
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horse； it would seem； must also have its constitutional round the house；
and this seen to； the man goes downstairs into the kitchen and begins to
chop wood； and when he has chopped sufficient wood he feels pleased
with himself and begins to sing。 All things considered； we came to the
conclusion we could not do better than follow the excellent example set us。
Even George was quite eager to get up that morning。
We had a frugal breakfast at half…past four； and started away at five。
Our road lay over a mountain； and from enquiries made in the village i