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accompanied an English lady once on a shopping excursion in Munich。
She had been accustomed to shopping in London and New York； and she
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grumbled at everything the man showed her。 It was not that she was
really dissatisfied； this was her method。 She explained that she could get
most things cheaper and better elsewhere； not that she really thought she
could； merely she held it good for the shopkeeper to say this。 She told
him that his stock lacked tasteshe did not mean to be offensive； as I have
explained； it was her method；that there was no variety about it； that it
was not up to date； that it was commonplace； that it looked as if it would
not wear。 He did not argue with her； he did not contradict her。 He put
the things back into their respective boxes； replaced the boxes on their
respective shelves； walked into the little parlour behind the shop； and
closed the door。
〃Isn't he ever coming back？〃 asked the lady； after a couple of minutes
had elapsed。
Her tone did not imply a question； so much as an exclamation of mere
impatience。
〃I doubt it；〃 I replied。
〃Why not？〃 she asked； much astonished。
〃I expect；〃 I answered； 〃you have bored him。 In all probability he is
at this moment behind that door smoking a pipe and reading the paper。〃
〃What an extraordinary shopkeeper！〃 said my friend； as she gathered
her parcels together and indignantly walked out。
〃It is their way；〃 I explained。 〃There are the goods； if you want them；
you can have them。 If you do not want them； they would almost rather
that you did not come and talk about them。〃
On another occasion I listened in the smoke…room of a German hotel
to a small Englishman telling a tale which； had I been in his place； I
should have kept to myself。
〃It doesn't do；〃 said the little Englishman； 〃to try and beat a German
down。 They don't seem to understand it。 I saw a first edition of The
Robbers in a shop in the Georg Platz。 I went in and asked the price。 It
was a rum old chap behind the counter。 He said： 'Twenty…five marks；'
and went on reading。 I told him I had seen a better copy only a few days
before for twentyone talks like that when one is bargaining； it is
understood。 He asked me 'Where？' I told him in a shop at Leipsig。
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He suggested my returning there and getting it； he did not seem to care
whether I bought the book or whether I didn't。 I said：
〃'What's the least you will take for it？'
〃'I have told you once；' he answered； 'twenty…five marks。' He was an
irritable old chap。
〃I said： 'It's not worth it。'
〃'I never said it was； did I？' he snapped。
〃I said： 'I'll give you ten marks for it。' I thought； maybe； he would
end by taking twenty。
〃He rose。 I took it he was coming round the counter to get the book
out。 Instead； he came straight up to me。 He was a biggish sort of man。
He took me by the two shoulders； walked me out into the street； and
closed the door behind me with a bang。 I was never more surprised in all
my life。
〃Maybe the book was worth twenty…five marks；〃 I suggested。
〃Of course it was；〃 he replied； 〃well worth it。 But what a notion of
business！〃
If anything change the German character； it will be the German
woman。 She herself is changing rapidlyadvancing； as we call it。 Ten
years ago no German woman caring for her reputation； hoping for a
husband； would have dared to ride a bicycle： to…day they spin about the
country in their thousands。 The old folks shake their heads at them； but
the young men； I notice； overtake them and ride beside them。 Not long
ago it was considered unwomanly in Germany for a lady to be able to do
the outside edge。 Her proper skating attitude was thought to be that of
clinging limpness to some male relative。 Now she practises eights in a
corner by herself； until some young man comes along to help her。 She
plays tennis； and； from a point of safety； I have even noticed her driving a
dog…cart。
Brilliantly educated she always has been。 At eighteen she speaks two
or three languages； and has forgotten more than the average
Englishwoman has ever read。 Hitherto； this education has been utterly
useless to her。 On marriage she has retired into the kitchen； and made
haste to clear her brain of everything else； in order to leave room for bad
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cooking。 But suppose it begins to dawn upon her that a woman need not
sacrifice her whole existence to household drudgery any more than a man
need make himself nothing else than a business machine。 Suppose she
develop an ambition to take part in the social and national life。 Then the
influence of such a partner； healthy in body and therefore vigorous in mind；
is bound to be both lasting and far…reaching。
For it must be borne in mind that the German man is exceptionally
sentimental； and most easily influenced by his women folk。 It is said of
him； he is the best of lovers； the worst of husbands。 This has been the
woman's fault。 Once married； the German woman has done more than
put romance behind her； she has taken a carpet… beater and driven it out of
the house。 As a girl； she never understood dressing； as a wife； she takes
off such clothes even as she had； and proceeds to wrap herself up in any
odd articles she may happen to find about the house； at all events； this is
the impression she produces。 The figure that might often be that of a
Juno； the complexion that would sometimes do credit to a healthy angel；
she proceeds of malice and intent to spoil。 She sells her birth…right of
admiration and devotion for a mess of sweets。 Every afternoon you may
see her at the cafe； loading herself with rich cream…covered cakes； washed
down by copious draughts of chocolate。 In a short time she becomes fat；
pasty； placid； and utterly uninteresting。
When the German woman gives up her afternoon coffee and her
evening beer； takes sufficient exercise to retain her shape； and continues to
read after marriage something else than the cookery…book； the German
Government will find it has a new and unknown force to deal with。 And
everywhere throughout Germany one is confronted by unmistakable signs
that the old German Frauen are giving place to the newer Damen。
Concerning what will then happen one feels curious。 For the German
nation is still young； and its maturity is of importance to the world。 They
are a good people； a lovable people； who should help much to make the
world better。
The worst that can be said against them is that they have their failings。
They themselves do not know this； they consider themselves perfect；
which is foolish of them。 They even go so far as to think themselves
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superior to the Anglo…Saxon： this is incomprehensible。 One feels they
must be pretending。
〃They have their points；〃 said George； 〃but their tobacco is a national
sin。 I'm going to bed。〃
We rose； and leaning over the low stone parapet； watched the dancing
lights upon the soft； dark river。
〃It has been a pleasant Bummel； on the whole；〃 said Harris； 〃I shall be
glad to get back； and yet I am sorry it is over； if you understand me。〃
〃What is a 'Bummel'？〃 said George。 〃How would you translate it？〃
〃A 'Bummel'；〃 I explained； 〃I should describe as a journey； long or
short； without an e