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part01-第3部分

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reeds; rushes; and pond…lilies; and overhung with rhododendron;

eglantine; yellow myrtle; and a profusion of wild flowers and aromatic

shrubs; while along its banks are groves of oranges; citrons; and

pomegranates; among which we heard the early note of the nightingale。

  A picturesque bridge was thrown across the little river; at one

end of which was the ancient Moorish mill of the castle; defended by a

tower of yellow stone; a fisherman's net hung against the wall to dry;

and hard by in the river was his boat; a group of peasant women in

bright…colored dresses; crossing the arched bridge; were reflected

in the placid stream。 Altogether it was an admirable scene for a

landscape painter。

  The old Moorish mills; so often found on secluded streams; are

characteristic objects in Spanish landscape; and suggestive of the

perilous times of old。 They are of stone; and often in the form of

towers with loopholes and battlements; capable of defence in those

warlike days when the country on both sides of the border was

subject to sudden inroad and hasty ravage; and when men had to labor

with their weapons at hand; and some place of temporary refuge。

  Our next halting place was at Gandul; where were the remains of

another Moorish castle; with its ruined tower; a nestling place for

storks; and commanding a view over a vast campina or fertile plain;

with the mountains of Ronda in the distance。 These castles were

strong…holds to protect the plains from the talas or forays to which

they were subject; when the fields of corn would be laid waste; the

flocks and herds swept from the vast pastures; and; together with

captive peasantry; hurried off in long cavalgadas across the borders。

  At Gandul we found a tolerable posada; the good folks could not tell

us what time of day it was… the clock only struck once in the day; two

hours after noon; until that time it was guesswork。 We guessed it

was full time to eat; so; alighting; we ordered a repast。 While that

was in preparation we visited the palace once the residence of the

Marquis of Gandul。 All was gone to decay; there were but two or

three rooms habitable; and very poorly furnished。 Yet here were the

remains of grandeur: a terrace; where fair dames and gentle

cavaliers may once have walked; a fish…pond and ruined garden; with

grape…vines and date…bearing palm…trees。 Here we were joined by a

fat curate; who gathered a bouquet of roses and presented it; very

gallantly; to the lady who accompanied us。

  Below the palace was the mill; with orange…trees and aloes in front;

and a pretty stream of pure water。 We took a seat in the shade; and

the millers; all leaving their work; sat down and smoked with us;

for the Andalusians are always ready for a gossip。 They were waiting

for the regular visit of the barber; who came once a week to put all

their chins in order。 He arrived shortly afterwards: a lad of

seventeen; mounted on a donkey; eager to display his new alforjas or

saddle…bags; just bought at a fair; price one dollar; to be paid on

St。 John's day (in June); by which time he trusted to have mown beards

enough to put him in funds。

  By the time the laconic clock of the castle had struck two we had

finished our dinner。 So; taking leave of our Seville friends; and

leaving the millers still under the hands of the barber; we set off on

our ride across the campina。 It was one of those vast plains; common

in Spain; where for miles and miles there is neither house nor tree。

Unlucky the traveller who has to traverse it; exposed as we were to

heavy and repeated showers of rain。 There is no escape nor shelter。

Our only protection was our Spanish cloaks; which nearly covered man

and horse; but grew heavier every mile。 By the time we had lived

through one shower we would see another slowly but inevitably

approaching; fortunately in the interval there would be an outbreak of

bright; warm; Andalusian sunshine; which would make our cloaks send up

wreaths of steam; but which partially dried them before the next

drenching。

  Shortly after sunset we arrived at Arahal; a little town among the

hills。 We found it in a bustle with a party of miquelets; who were

patrolling the country to ferret out robbers。 The appearance of

foreigners like ourselves was an unusual circumstance in an interior

country town; and little Spanish towns of the kind are easily put in a

state of gossip and wonderment by such an occurrence。 Mine host;

with two or three old wiseacre comrades in brown Cloaks; studied our

passports in a corner of the posada; while an Alguazil took notes by

the dim light of a lamp。 The passports were in foreign languages and

perplexed them; but our Squire Sancho assisted them in their

studies; and magnified our importance with the grandiloquence of a

Spaniard。 In the mean time the magnificent distribution of a few

cigars had won the hearts of all around us; in a little while the

whole community seemed put in agitation to make us welcome。 The

corregidor himself waited upon us; and a great rush…bottomed arm…chair

was ostentatiously bolstered into our room by our landlady; for the

accommodation of that important personage。 The commander of the patrol

took supper with us… a lively; talking; laughing Andaluz; who had made

a campaign in South America; and recounted his exploits in love and

war with much pomp of phrase; vehemence of gesticulation; and

mysterious rolling of the eye。 He told us that he had a list of all

the robbers in the country; and meant to ferret out every mother's son

of them; he offered us at the same time some of his soldiers as an

escort。 〃One is enough to protect you; senores; the robbers know me;

and know my men; the sight of one is enough to spread terror through a

whole sierra。〃 We thanked him for his offer; but assured him; in his

own strain; that with the protection of our redoubtable squire;

Sancho; we were not afraid of all the ladrones of Andalusia。

  While we were supping with our Drawcansir friend; we heard the notes

of a guitar; and the click of castanets; and presently a chorus of

voices singing a popular air。 In fact mine host had gathered

together the amateur singers and musicians; and the rustic belles of

the neighborhood; and; on going forth; the courtyard or patio of the

inn presented a scene of true Spanish festivity。 We took our seats

with mine host and hostess and the commander of the patrol; under an

archway opening into the court; the guitar passed from hand to hand;

but a jovial shoemaker was the Orpheus of the place。 He was a

pleasant…looking fellow; with huge black whiskers; his sleeves were

rolled up to his elbows。 He touched the guitar with masterly skill;

and sang a little amorous ditty with an expressive leer at the

women; with whom he was evidently a favorite。 He afterwards danced a

fandango with a buxom Andalusian damsel; to the great delight of the

spectators。 But none of the females present could compare with mine

host's pretty daughter; Pepita; who had slipped away and made her

toilette for the occasion; and had covered her head with roses; and

who distinguished herself in a bolero with a handsome young dragoon。

We ordered our host to let wine and refreshment circulate freely among

the company; yet; though there was a motley assembly of soldiers;

muleteers; and villagers; no one exceeded the bounds of sober

enjoyment。 The scene was a study for a painter: the picturesque

group of dancers; the troopers in their half military dresses; the

peasantry wrapped in their brown cloaks; nor must I omit to mention

the old meagre Alguazil; in a short black cloak; who took no notice of

any thing going on; but sat in a corner diligently writing by the

dim light of a huge copper lamp; that might have figured in the days

of Don Quixote。

  The following morning was bright and balmy; as a May morning ought

to be; according to the poets。 Leaving Arahal at seven o'clock; with

all the posada at the door to cheer us off we pursued our way

through a fertile country; covered with grain and beautifully verdant;

but which in summer; when the harvest is over and the fields parched

and brown; must be monotonous and lonely; for; as in our ride of

yesterday; there were neither houses nor people to be seen。 The latter

all congregate in villages and strong…holds among the hills; as if

these fertile plains were still subject to the ravages of the Moor。

  At noon we came to where there was a group of trees; beside a

brook in a rich meadow。 Here we alighted to make our midday meal。 It

was really a luxurious spot; among wild flowers and aromatic herbs;

with birds singing around us。 Knowing the scanty larders of Spanish

inns; and the houseless tracts we might have to traverse; we had taken

care to have the alforjas of our squire well stocked with cold

provisions; and his bota; or leathern bottle; which might hold a

gallon; filled to the neck with choice Valdepenas wine。* As we

depended more upon these for our well…
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