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reeds； rushes； and pond…lilies； and overhung with rhododendron；
eglantine； yellow myrtle； and a profusion of wild flowers and aromatic
shrubs； while along its banks are groves of oranges； citrons； and
pomegranates； among which we heard the early note of the nightingale。
A picturesque bridge was thrown across the little river； at one
end of which was the ancient Moorish mill of the castle； defended by a
tower of yellow stone； a fisherman's net hung against the wall to dry；
and hard by in the river was his boat； a group of peasant women in
bright…colored dresses； crossing the arched bridge； were reflected
in the placid stream。 Altogether it was an admirable scene for a
landscape painter。
The old Moorish mills； so often found on secluded streams； are
characteristic objects in Spanish landscape； and suggestive of the
perilous times of old。 They are of stone； and often in the form of
towers with loopholes and battlements； capable of defence in those
warlike days when the country on both sides of the border was
subject to sudden inroad and hasty ravage； and when men had to labor
with their weapons at hand； and some place of temporary refuge。
Our next halting place was at Gandul； where were the remains of
another Moorish castle； with its ruined tower； a nestling place for
storks； and commanding a view over a vast campina or fertile plain；
with the mountains of Ronda in the distance。 These castles were
strong…holds to protect the plains from the talas or forays to which
they were subject； when the fields of corn would be laid waste； the
flocks and herds swept from the vast pastures； and； together with
captive peasantry； hurried off in long cavalgadas across the borders。
At Gandul we found a tolerable posada； the good folks could not tell
us what time of day it was… the clock only struck once in the day； two
hours after noon； until that time it was guesswork。 We guessed it
was full time to eat； so； alighting； we ordered a repast。 While that
was in preparation we visited the palace once the residence of the
Marquis of Gandul。 All was gone to decay； there were but two or
three rooms habitable； and very poorly furnished。 Yet here were the
remains of grandeur： a terrace； where fair dames and gentle
cavaliers may once have walked； a fish…pond and ruined garden； with
grape…vines and date…bearing palm…trees。 Here we were joined by a
fat curate； who gathered a bouquet of roses and presented it； very
gallantly； to the lady who accompanied us。
Below the palace was the mill； with orange…trees and aloes in front；
and a pretty stream of pure water。 We took a seat in the shade； and
the millers； all leaving their work； sat down and smoked with us；
for the Andalusians are always ready for a gossip。 They were waiting
for the regular visit of the barber； who came once a week to put all
their chins in order。 He arrived shortly afterwards： a lad of
seventeen； mounted on a donkey； eager to display his new alforjas or
saddle…bags； just bought at a fair； price one dollar； to be paid on
St。 John's day （in June）； by which time he trusted to have mown beards
enough to put him in funds。
By the time the laconic clock of the castle had struck two we had
finished our dinner。 So； taking leave of our Seville friends； and
leaving the millers still under the hands of the barber； we set off on
our ride across the campina。 It was one of those vast plains； common
in Spain； where for miles and miles there is neither house nor tree。
Unlucky the traveller who has to traverse it； exposed as we were to
heavy and repeated showers of rain。 There is no escape nor shelter。
Our only protection was our Spanish cloaks； which nearly covered man
and horse； but grew heavier every mile。 By the time we had lived
through one shower we would see another slowly but inevitably
approaching； fortunately in the interval there would be an outbreak of
bright； warm； Andalusian sunshine； which would make our cloaks send up
wreaths of steam； but which partially dried them before the next
drenching。
Shortly after sunset we arrived at Arahal； a little town among the
hills。 We found it in a bustle with a party of miquelets； who were
patrolling the country to ferret out robbers。 The appearance of
foreigners like ourselves was an unusual circumstance in an interior
country town； and little Spanish towns of the kind are easily put in a
state of gossip and wonderment by such an occurrence。 Mine host；
with two or three old wiseacre comrades in brown Cloaks； studied our
passports in a corner of the posada； while an Alguazil took notes by
the dim light of a lamp。 The passports were in foreign languages and
perplexed them； but our Squire Sancho assisted them in their
studies； and magnified our importance with the grandiloquence of a
Spaniard。 In the mean time the magnificent distribution of a few
cigars had won the hearts of all around us； in a little while the
whole community seemed put in agitation to make us welcome。 The
corregidor himself waited upon us； and a great rush…bottomed arm…chair
was ostentatiously bolstered into our room by our landlady； for the
accommodation of that important personage。 The commander of the patrol
took supper with us… a lively； talking； laughing Andaluz； who had made
a campaign in South America； and recounted his exploits in love and
war with much pomp of phrase； vehemence of gesticulation； and
mysterious rolling of the eye。 He told us that he had a list of all
the robbers in the country； and meant to ferret out every mother's son
of them； he offered us at the same time some of his soldiers as an
escort。 〃One is enough to protect you； senores； the robbers know me；
and know my men； the sight of one is enough to spread terror through a
whole sierra。〃 We thanked him for his offer； but assured him； in his
own strain； that with the protection of our redoubtable squire；
Sancho； we were not afraid of all the ladrones of Andalusia。
While we were supping with our Drawcansir friend； we heard the notes
of a guitar； and the click of castanets； and presently a chorus of
voices singing a popular air。 In fact mine host had gathered
together the amateur singers and musicians； and the rustic belles of
the neighborhood； and； on going forth； the courtyard or patio of the
inn presented a scene of true Spanish festivity。 We took our seats
with mine host and hostess and the commander of the patrol； under an
archway opening into the court； the guitar passed from hand to hand；
but a jovial shoemaker was the Orpheus of the place。 He was a
pleasant…looking fellow； with huge black whiskers； his sleeves were
rolled up to his elbows。 He touched the guitar with masterly skill；
and sang a little amorous ditty with an expressive leer at the
women； with whom he was evidently a favorite。 He afterwards danced a
fandango with a buxom Andalusian damsel； to the great delight of the
spectators。 But none of the females present could compare with mine
host's pretty daughter； Pepita； who had slipped away and made her
toilette for the occasion； and had covered her head with roses； and
who distinguished herself in a bolero with a handsome young dragoon。
We ordered our host to let wine and refreshment circulate freely among
the company； yet； though there was a motley assembly of soldiers；
muleteers； and villagers； no one exceeded the bounds of sober
enjoyment。 The scene was a study for a painter： the picturesque
group of dancers； the troopers in their half military dresses； the
peasantry wrapped in their brown cloaks； nor must I omit to mention
the old meagre Alguazil； in a short black cloak； who took no notice of
any thing going on； but sat in a corner diligently writing by the
dim light of a huge copper lamp； that might have figured in the days
of Don Quixote。
The following morning was bright and balmy； as a May morning ought
to be； according to the poets。 Leaving Arahal at seven o'clock； with
all the posada at the door to cheer us off we pursued our way
through a fertile country； covered with grain and beautifully verdant；
but which in summer； when the harvest is over and the fields parched
and brown； must be monotonous and lonely； for； as in our ride of
yesterday； there were neither houses nor people to be seen。 The latter
all congregate in villages and strong…holds among the hills； as if
these fertile plains were still subject to the ravages of the Moor。
At noon we came to where there was a group of trees； beside a
brook in a rich meadow。 Here we alighted to make our midday meal。 It
was really a luxurious spot； among wild flowers and aromatic herbs；
with birds singing around us。 Knowing the scanty larders of Spanish
inns； and the houseless tracts we might have to traverse； we had taken
care to have the alforjas of our squire well stocked with cold
provisions； and his bota； or leathern bottle； which might hold a
gallon； filled to the neck with choice Valdepenas wine。* As we
depended more upon these for our well…