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gallon； filled to the neck with choice Valdepenas wine。* As we
depended more upon these for our well…being than even his trabuco；
we exhorted him to be more attentive in keeping them well charged； and
I must do him the justice to say that his namesake； the
trencher…loving Sancho Panza； was never a more provident purveyor。
Though the alforjas and the bota were frequently and vigorously
assailed throughout the journey； they had a wonderful power of
repletion； our vigilant squire sacking every thing that remained
from our repasts at the inns； to supply these junketings by the
road…side； which were his delight。
* It may be as well to note here； that the alforjas are square
pockets at each end of a long cloth about a foot and a half wide；
formed by turning up its extremities。 The cloth is then thrown over
the saddle； and the pockets hang on each side like saddle…bags。 It
is an Arab invention。 The bota is a leathern bag or bottle； of
portly dimensions； with a narrow neck。 It is also oriental。 Hence
the scriptural caution； which perplexed me in my boyhood； not to put
new wine into old bottles。
On the present occasion he spread quite a sumptuous variety of
remnants on the green…sward before us； graced with an excellent ham
brought from Seville； then； taking his seat at a little distance； he
solaced himself with what remained in the alforjas。 A visit or two
to the bota made him as merry and chirruping as a grasshopper filled
with dew。 On my comparing his contents of the alforjas to Sancho's
skimming of the flesh…pots at the wedding of Camacho； I found he was
well versed in the history of Don Quixote； but； like many of the
common people of Spain； firmly believed it to be a true history。
〃All that happened a long time ago； senor；〃 said he； with an
inquiring look。
〃A very long time；〃 I replied。
〃I dare say more than a thousand years〃… still looking dubiously。
〃I dare say not less。〃
The squire was satisfied。 Nothing pleased the simple…hearted
varlet more than my comparing him to the renowned Sancho for
devotion to the trencher； and he called himself by no other name
throughout the journey。
Our repast being finished； we spread our cloaks on the green…sward
under the tree； and took a luxurious siesta in the Spanish fashion。
The clouding up of the weather； however； warned us to depart； and a
harsh wind sprang up from the southeast。 Towards five o'clock we
arrived at Osuna； a town of fifteen thousand inhabitants； situated
on the side of a hill； with a church and a ruined castle。 The posada
was outside of the walls； it had a cheerless look。 The evening being
cold； the inhabitants were crowded round a brasero in a chimney
corner； and the hostess was a dry old woman； who looked like a
mummy。 Every one eyed us askance as we entered； as Spaniards are apt
to regard strangers； a cheery； respectful salutation on our part；
caballeroing them and touching our sombreros； set Spanish pride at
ease； and when we took our seat among them； lit our cigars； and passed
the cigar…box round among them； our victory was complete。 I have never
known a Spaniard； whatever his rank or condition； who would suffer
himself to be outdone in courtesy； and to the common Spaniard the
present of a cigar （puro） is irresistible。 Care； however； must be
taken never to offer him a present with an air of superiority and
condescension； he is too much of a caballero to receive favors at
the cost of his dignity。
Leaving Osuna at an early hour the next morning； we entered the
sierra or range of mountains。 The road wound through picturesque
scenery； but lonely； and a cross here and there by the road side；
the sign of a murder； showed that we were now coming among the 〃robber
haunts。〃 This wild and intricate country； with its silent plains and
valleys intersected by mountains； has ever been famous for banditti。
It was here that Omar Ibn Hassan； a robber…chief among the Moslems；
held ruthless sway in the ninth century； disputing dominion even
with the caliphs of Cordova。 This too was a part of the regions so
often ravaged during the reign of Ferdinand and Isabella by Ali
Atar； the old Moorish alcayde of Loxa； father…in…law of Boabdil； so
that it was called Ali Atar's garden； and here 〃Jose Maria；〃 famous in
Spanish brigand story； had his favorite lurking places。
In the course of the day we passed through Fuente la Piedra near a
little salt lake of the same name； a beautiful sheet of water；
reflecting like a mirror the distant mountains。 We now came in sight
of Antiquera； that old city of warlike reputation； lying in the lap of
the great sierra which runs through Andalusia。 A noble vega spread out
before it； a picture of mild fertility set in a frame of rocky
mountains。 Crossing a gentle river we approached the city between
hedges and gardens； in which nightingales were pouring forth their
evening song。 About nightfall we arrived at the gates。 Every thing
in this venerable city has a decidedly Spanish stamp。 It lies too much
out of the frequented track of foreign travel to have its old usages
trampled out。 Here I observed old men still wearing the montero； or
ancient hunting cap； once common throughout Spain； while the young men
wore the little round…crowned hat； with brim turned up all round； like
a cup turned down in its saucer； while the brim was set off with
little black tufts like cockades。 The women； too； were all in
mantillas and basquinas。 The fashions of Paris had not reached
Antiquera。
Pursuing our course through a spacious street； we put up at the
posada of San Fernando。 As Antiquera； though a considerable city；
is； as I observed； somewhat out of the track of travel； I had
anticipated bad quarters and poor fare at the inn。 I was agreeably
disappointed； therefore； by a supper table amply supplied； and what
were still more acceptable； good clean rooms and comfortable beds。 Our
man； Sancho； felt himself as well off as his namesake； when he had the
run of the duke's kitchen； and let me know； as I retired for the
night； that it had been a proud time for the alforjas。
Early in the morning （May 4th） I strolled to the ruins of the old
Moorish castle； which itself had been reared on the ruins of a Roman
fortress。 Here； taking my seat on the remains of a crumbling tower；
I enjoyed a grand and varied landscape； beautiful in itself； and
full of storied and romantic associations； for I was now in the very
heart of the country famous for the chivalrous contests between Moor
and Christian。 Below me； in its lap of hills； lay the old warrior city
so often mentioned in chronicle and ballad。 Out of yon gate and down
yon hill paraded the band of Spanish cavaliers； of highest rank and
bravest bearing； to make that foray during the war and conquest of
Granada； which ended in the lamentable massacre among the mountains of
Malaga； and laid all Andalusia in mourning。 Beyond spread out the
vega； covered with gardens and orchards and fields of grain and
enamelled meadows； inferior only to the famous vega of Granada。 To the
right the Rock of the Lovers stretched like a cragged promontory
into the plain； whence the daughter of the Moorish alcayde and her
lover； when closely pursued； threw themselves in despair。
The matin peal from church and convent below me rang sweetly in
the morning air； as I descended。 The market…place was beginning to
throng with the populace； who traffic in the abundant produce of the
vega； for this is the mart of an agricultural region。 In the
market…place were abundance of freshly plucked roses for sale； for not
a dame or damsel of Andalusia thinks her gala dress complete without a
rose shining like a gem among her raven tresses。
On returning to the inn I found our man Sancho； in high gossip
with the landlord and two or three of his hangers…on。 He had just been
telling some marvellous story about Seville； which mine host seemed
piqued to match with one equally marvellous about Antiquera。 There was
once a fountain； he said； in one of the public squares called IL
fuente del toro； the fountain of the bull； because the water gushed
from the mouth of a bull's head； carved of stone。 Underneath the
head was inscribed：
EN FRENTE DEL TORO
SE HALLEN TESORO。
（In front of the bull there is treasure。） Many digged in front of
the fountain； but lost their labor and found no money。 At last one
knowing fellow construed the motto a different way。 It is in the
forehead （frente） of the bull that the treasure is to be found； said
he to himself； and I am the man to find it。 Accordingly he came late
at night； with a mallet； and knocked the head to pieces； and what do
you think he found？
〃Plenty of gold and diamonds！〃 cried Sancho eagerly。
〃He found nothing；〃 rejoined mine host dryly； 〃and he ruined the
fountain。〃
Here a great laugh was set up by the landlord's hangers…on； who
considered Sancho completely taken i