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fountain。〃
Here a great laugh was set up by the landlord's hangers…on； who
considered Sancho completely taken in by what I presume was one of
mine host's standing jokes。
Leaving Antiquera at eight O'clock； we had a delightful ride along
the little river； and by gardens and orchards； fragrant with the odors
of spring and vocal with the nightingale。 Our road passed round the
Rock of the Lovers （el Penon de los Enamorados）； which rose in a
precipice above us。 In the course of the morning we passed through
Archidona； situated in the breast of a high hill； with a three…pointed
mountain towering above it； and the ruins of a Moorish fortress。 It
was a great toil to ascend a steep stony street leading up into the
city； although it bore the encouraging name of Calle Real del Llano
（the Royal Street of the Plain）； but it was still a greater toil to
descend from this mountain city on the other side。
At noon we halted in sight of Archidona； in a pleasant little meadow
among hills covered with olive…trees。 Our cloaks were spread on the
grass； under an elm by the side of a bubbling rivulet； our horses were
tethered where they might crop the herbage； and Sancho was told to
produce his alforjas。 He had been unusually silent this morning ever
since the laugh raised at his expense； but now his countenance
brightened； and he produced his alforjas with an air of triumph。
They contained the contributions of four days' journeying； but had
been signally enriched by the foraging of the previous evening in
the plenteous inn at Antiquera； and this seemed to furnish him with
a set…off to the banter of mine host。
EN FRENTE DEL TORO
SE HALLEN TESORO
would he exclaim； with a chuckling laugh； as he drew forth the
heterogeneous contents one by one； in a series which seemed to have no
end。 First came forth a shoulder of roasted kid； very little the worse
for wear； then an entire partridge； then a great morsel of salted
codfish wrapped in paper； then the residue of a ham； then the half
of a pullet； together with several rolls of bread； and a rabble rout
of oranges； figs； raisins； and walnuts。 His bota also had been
recruited with some excellent wine of Malaga。 At every fresh
apparition from his larder； he would enjoy our ludicrous surprise；
throwing himself back on the grass； shouting with laughter； and
exclaiming 〃Frente del toro！… frente del toro！ Ah； senores； they
thought Sancho a simpleton at Antiquera； but Sancho knew where to find
the tesoro。〃
While we were diverting ourselves with his simple drollery； a
solitary beggar approached； who had almost the look of a pilgrim。 He
had a venerable gray beard； and was evidently very old； supporting
himself on a staff； yet age had not bowed him down； he was tall and
erect； and had the wreck of a fine form。 He wore a round Andalusian
hat； a sheep…skin jacket； and leathern breeches； gaiters； and sandals。
His dress； though old and patched； was decent； his demeanor manly； and
he addressed us with the grave courtesy that is to be remarked in
the lowest Spaniard。 We were in a favorable mood for such a visitor；
and in a freak of capricious charity gave him some silver； a loaf of
fine wheaten bread； and a goblet of our choice wine of Malaga。 He
received them thankfully； but without any grovelling tribute of
gratitude。 Tasting the wine； he held it up to the light； with a slight
beam of surprise in his eye； then quaffing it off at a draught； 〃It is
many years；〃 said he； 〃since I have tasted such wine。 It is a
cordial to an old man's heart。〃 Then； looking at the beautiful wheaten
loaf； 〃Bendito sea tal pan！〃 〃Blessed be such bread！〃 So saying； he
put it in his wallet。 We urged him to eat it on the spot。 〃No；
senores；〃 replied he； 〃the wine I had either to drink or leave； but
the bread I may take home to share with my family。〃
Our man Sancho sought our eye； and reading permission there； gave
the old man some of the ample fragments of our repast； on condition；
however； that he should sit down and make a meal。
He accordingly took his seat at some little distance from us； and
began to eat slowly； and with a sobriety and decorum that would have
become a hidalgo。 There was altogether a measured manner and a quiet
self…possession about the old man； that made me think that he had seen
better days； his language too； though simple； had occasionally
something picturesque and almost poetical in the phraseology。 I set
him down for some broken…down cavalier。 I was mistaken； it was nothing
but the innate courtesy of a Spaniard； and the poetical turn of
thought and language often to be found in the lowest classes of this
clear…witted people。 For fifty years； he told us； he had been a
shepherd； but now he was out of employ and destitute。 〃When I was a
young man；〃 said he； 〃nothing could harm or trouble me； I was always
well； always gay； but now I am seventy…nine years of age； and a
beggar； and my heart begins to fail me。〃
Still he was not a regular mendicant： it was not until recently that
want had driven him to this degradation； and he gave a touching
picture of the struggle between hunger and pride； when abject
destitution first came upon him。 He was returning from Malaga
without money； he had not tasted food for some time； and was
crossing one of the great plains of Spain； where there were but few
habitations。 When almost dead with hunger； he applied at the door of a
venta or country inn。 〃Perdon usted por Dios； hermano！〃 （〃Excuse us；
brother； for God's sake！〃） was the reply… the usual mode in Spain of
refusing a beggar。
〃I turned away；〃 said he； 〃with shame greater than my hunger； for my
heart was yet too proud。 I came to a river with high banks； and
deep； rapid current； and felt tempted to throw myself in： 'What should
such an old； worthless； wretched man as I live for？' But when I was on
the brink of the current； I thought on the blessed Virgin； and
turned away。 I travelled on until I saw a country…seat at a little
distance from the road； and entered the outer gate of the
court…yard。 The door was shut； but there were two young senoras at a
window。 I approached and begged。 'Perdon usted por Dios； hermano！'…
and the window closed。
〃I crept out of the court…yard； but hunger overcame me； and my heart
gave way： I thought my hour at hand； so I laid myself down at the
gate； commended myself to the Holy Virgin； and covered my head to die。
In a little while afterwards the master of the house came home。 Seeing
me lying at his gate； he uncovered my head； had pity on my gray hairs；
took me into his house； and gave me food。 So； senores； you see that
one should always put confidence in the protection of the Virgin。〃
The old man was on his way to his native place； Archidona； which was
in full view on its steep and rugged mountain。 He pointed to the ruins
of its castle。 〃That castle；〃 he said； 〃was inhabited by a Moorish
king at the time of the wars of Granada。 Queen Isabella invaded it
with a great army； but the king looked down from his castle among
the clouds； and laughed her to scorn！ Upon this the Virgin appeared to
the queen； and guided her and her army up a mysterious path in the
mountains； which had never before been known。 When the Moor saw her
coming； he was astonished； and springing with his horse from a
precipice； was dashed to pieces！ The marks of his horse's hoofs；〃 said
the old man； 〃are to be seen in the margin of the rock to this day。
And see； senores； yonder is the road by which the queen and her army
mounted： you see it like a ribbon up the mountain's side； but the
miracle is； that； though it can be seen at a distance； when you come
near it disappears！〃
The ideal road to which he pointed was undoubtedly a sandy ravine of
the mountain； which looked narrow and defined at a distance； but
became broad and indistinct on an approach。
As the old man's heart warmed with wine and wassail； he went on to
tell us a story of the buried treasure left under the castle by the
Moorish king。 His own house was next to the foundations of the castle。
The curate and notary dreamed three times of the treasure； and went to
work at the place pointed out in their dreams。 His own son…in…law
heard the sound of their pickaxes and spades at night。 What they found
nobody knows； they became suddenly rich； but kept their own secret。
Thus the old man had once been next door to fortune； but was doomed
never to get under the same roof。
I have remarked that the stories of treasure buried by the Moors； so
popular throughout Spain； are most current among the poorest people。
Kind nature consoles with shadows for the lack of substantials。 The
thirsty man dreams of fountains and running streams； the hungry man of
banquets； and the poor man of heaps of hidden gold： nothing
certainly is more opulent than the imagination of a beggar。
Our afternoon's ride took us through a steep and rugged defile of
the