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seem to have plenty of time and plenty of money： 〃horse to ride and
weapon to wear。〃 Great gossips； great smokers； apt at touching the
guitar； singing couplets to their maja belles； and famous dancers of
the bolero。 Throughout all Spain the men； however poor； have a
gentleman…like abundance of leisure； seeming to consider it the
attribute of a true cavaliero never to be in a hurry； but the
Andalusians are gay as well as leisurely； and have none of the squalid
accompaniments of idleness。 The adventurous contraband trade which
prevails throughout these mountain regions； and along the maritime
borders of Andalusia； is doubtless at the bottom of this galliard
character。
In contrast to the costume of these groups was that of two
long…legged Valencians conducting a donkey； laden with articles of
merchandise； their musket slung crosswise over his back ready for
action。 They wore round jackets （jalecos）； wide linen bragas or
drawers scarce reaching to the knees and looking like kilts； red fajas
or sashes swathed tightly round their waists； sandals of espartal or
bass weed； colored kerchiefs round their heads somewhat in the style
of turbans but leaving the top of the head uncovered； in short；
their whole appearance having much of the traditional Moorish stamp。
On leaving Loxa we were joined by a cavalier； well mounted and
well armed； and followed on foot by an escopetero or musketeer。 He
saluted us courteously； and soon let us into his quality。 He was chief
of the customs； or rather； I should suppose； chief of an armed company
whose business it is to patrol the roads and look out for
contrabandistas。 The escopetero was one of his guards。 In the course
of our morning's ride I drew from him some particulars concerning
the smugglers； who have risen to be a kind of mongrel chivalry in
Spain。 They come into Andalusia； he said； from various parts； but
especially from La Mancha； sometimes to receive goods； to be
smuggled on an appointed night across the line at the plaza or
strand of Gibraltar； sometimes to meet a vessel； which is to hover
on a given night off a certain part of the coast。 They keep together
and travel in the night。 In the daytime they lie quiet in barrancos；
gullies of the mountains or lonely farm…houses； where they are
generally well received； as they make the family liberal presents of
their smuggled wares。 Indeed； much of the finery and trinkets worn
by the wives and daughters of the mountain hamlets and farm…houses are
presents from the gay and open…handed contrabandistas。
Arrived at the part of the coast where a vessel is to meet them；
they look out at night from some rocky point or headland。 If they
descry a sail near the shore they make a concerted signal； sometimes
it consists in suddenly displaying a lantern three times from
beneath the folds of a cloak。 If the signal is answered； they
descend to the shore and prepare for quick work。 The vessel runs close
in； all her boats are busy landing the smuggled goods； made up into
snug packages for transportation on horseback。 These are hastily
thrown on the beach； as hastily gathered up and packed on the
horses； and then the contrabandistas clatter off to the mountains。
They travel by the roughest； wildest； and most solitary roads； where
it is almost fruitless to pursue them。 The custom…house guards do
not attempt it： they take a different course。 When they hear of one of
these bands returning full freighted through the mountains； they go
out in force； sometimes twelve infantry and eight horsemen； and take
their station where the mountain defile opens into the plain。 The
infantry； who lie in ambush some distance within the defile； suffer
the band to pass； then rise and fire upon them。 The contrabandistas
dash forward； but are met in front by the horsemen。 A wild skirmish
ensues。 The contrabandistas； if hard pressed； become desperate。 Some
dismount； use their horses as breast…works； and fire over their backs；
others cut the cords； let the packs fall off to delay the enemy； and
endeavor to escape with their steeds。 Some get off in this way with
the loss of their packages； some are taken； horses； packages； and all；
others abandon every thing； and make their escape by scrambling up the
mountains。 〃And then；〃 cried Sancho； who had been listening with a
greedy ear； 〃se hacen ladrones legitimos〃… and then they become
legitimate robbers。
I could not help laughing at Sancho's idea of a legitimate calling
of the kind； but the chief of customs told me it was really the case
that the smugglers； when thus reduced to extremity； thought they had a
kind of right to take the road； and lay travellers under contribution；
until they had collected funds enough to mount and equip themselves in
contrabandista style。
Towards noon our wayfaring companion took leave of us and turned
up a steep defile； followed by his escopetero； and shortly
afterwards we emerged from the mountains； and entered upon the far
famed Vega of Granada。
Our last mid…day's repast was taken under a grove of olive…trees
on the border of a rivulet。 We were in a classical neighborhood； for
not far off were the groves and orchards of the Soto de Roma。 This；
according to fabulous tradition； was a retreat founded by Count Julian
to console his daughter Florinda。 It was a rural resort of the Moorish
kings of Granada； and has in modern times been granted to the Duke
of Wellington。
Our worthy squire made a half melancholy face as he drew forth；
for the last time； the contents of his alforjas； lamenting that our
expedition was drawing to a close； for； with such cavaliers； he
said； he could travel to the world's end。 Our repast； however； was a
gay one； made under such delightful auspices。 The day was without a
cloud。 The heat of the sun was tempered by cool breezes from the
mountains。 Before us extended the glorious Vega。 In the distance was
romantic Granada surmounted by the ruddy towers of the Alhambra； while
far above it the snowy summits of the Sierra Nevada shone like silver。
Our repast finished； we spread our cloaks and took our last siesta
al fresco； lulled by the humming of bees among the flowers and the
notes of doves among the olive…trees。 When the sultry hours were
passed we resumed our journey。 After a time we overtook a pursy little
man； shaped not unlike a toad and mounted on a mule。 He fell into
conversation with Sancho； and finding we were strangers； undertook
to guide us to a good posada。 He was an escribano （notary）； he said；
and knew the city as thoroughly as his own pocket。 〃Ah Dios；
senores！ what a city you are going to see。 Such streets！ such squares！
such palaces！ and then the women… ah Santa Maria purisima… what
women！〃 〃But the posada you talk of；〃 said I； 〃are you sure it is a
good one？〃
〃Good！ Santa Maria！ the best in Granada。 Salones grandes… camas de
luxo… colchones de pluma （grand saloons… luxurious sleeping rooms…
beds of down）。 Ah； senores； you will fare like King Chico in the
Alhambra。〃
〃And how will my horses fare？〃 cried Sancho。
〃Like King Chico's horses。 Chocolate con leche y bollos para
almuerza〃 （〃chocolate and milk with sugar cakes for breakfast〃）；
giving the squire a knowing wink and a leer。
After such satisfactory accounts nothing more was to be desired on
that head。 So we rode quietly on； the squab little notary taking the
lead； and turning to us every moment with some fresh exclamation about
the grandeurs of Granada and the famous times we were to have at the
posada。
Thus escorted； we passed between hedges of aloes and Indian figs；
and through that wilderness of gardens with which the Vega is
embroidered； and arrived about sunset at the gates of the city。 Our
officious little conductor conveyed us up one street and down another；
until he rode into the courtyard of an inn where he appeared to be
perfectly at home。 Summoning the landlord by his Christian name； he
committed us to his care as two caballeros de mucho valor； worthy of
his best apartments and most sumptuous fare。 We were instantly
reminded of the patronizing stranger who introduced Gil Blas with such
a flourish of trumpets to the host and hostess of the inn at
Pennaflor； ordering trouts for his supper； and eating voraciously at
his expense。 〃You know not what you possess；〃 cried he to the
innkeeper and his wife。 〃You have a treasure in your house。 Behold
in this young gentleman the eighth wonder of the world… nothing in
this house is too good for Senor Gil Blas of Santillane； who
deserves to be entertained like a prince。〃
Determined that the little notary should not eat trouts at our
expense； like his prototype of Pennaflor； we forbore to ask him to
supper； nor had we reason to reproach ourselves with ingratitude；
for we found before morning the little varlet； who was no doubt a good
friend of the landlord； had decoyed us into one of the shabbiest
posadas in Granada。