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part01-第7部分

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seem to have plenty of time and plenty of money: 〃horse to ride and

weapon to wear。〃 Great gossips; great smokers; apt at touching the

guitar; singing couplets to their maja belles; and famous dancers of

the bolero。 Throughout all Spain the men; however poor; have a

gentleman…like abundance of leisure; seeming to consider it the

attribute of a true cavaliero never to be in a hurry; but the

Andalusians are gay as well as leisurely; and have none of the squalid

accompaniments of idleness。 The adventurous contraband trade which

prevails throughout these mountain regions; and along the maritime

borders of Andalusia; is doubtless at the bottom of this galliard

character。

  In contrast to the costume of these groups was that of two

long…legged Valencians conducting a donkey; laden with articles of

merchandise; their musket slung crosswise over his back ready for

action。 They wore round jackets (jalecos); wide linen bragas or

drawers scarce reaching to the knees and looking like kilts; red fajas

or sashes swathed tightly round their waists; sandals of espartal or

bass weed; colored kerchiefs round their heads somewhat in the style

of turbans but leaving the top of the head uncovered; in short;

their whole appearance having much of the traditional Moorish stamp。

  On leaving Loxa we were joined by a cavalier; well mounted and

well armed; and followed on foot by an escopetero or musketeer。 He

saluted us courteously; and soon let us into his quality。 He was chief

of the customs; or rather; I should suppose; chief of an armed company

whose business it is to patrol the roads and look out for

contrabandistas。 The escopetero was one of his guards。 In the course

of our morning's ride I drew from him some particulars concerning

the smugglers; who have risen to be a kind of mongrel chivalry in

Spain。 They come into Andalusia; he said; from various parts; but

especially from La Mancha; sometimes to receive goods; to be

smuggled on an appointed night across the line at the plaza or

strand of Gibraltar; sometimes to meet a vessel; which is to hover

on a given night off a certain part of the coast。 They keep together

and travel in the night。 In the daytime they lie quiet in barrancos;

gullies of the mountains or lonely farm…houses; where they are

generally well received; as they make the family liberal presents of

their smuggled wares。 Indeed; much of the finery and trinkets worn

by the wives and daughters of the mountain hamlets and farm…houses are

presents from the gay and open…handed contrabandistas。

  Arrived at the part of the coast where a vessel is to meet them;

they look out at night from some rocky point or headland。 If they

descry a sail near the shore they make a concerted signal; sometimes

it consists in suddenly displaying a lantern three times from

beneath the folds of a cloak。 If the signal is answered; they

descend to the shore and prepare for quick work。 The vessel runs close

in; all her boats are busy landing the smuggled goods; made up into

snug packages for transportation on horseback。 These are hastily

thrown on the beach; as hastily gathered up and packed on the

horses; and then the contrabandistas clatter off to the mountains。

They travel by the roughest; wildest; and most solitary roads; where

it is almost fruitless to pursue them。 The custom…house guards do

not attempt it: they take a different course。 When they hear of one of

these bands returning full freighted through the mountains; they go

out in force; sometimes twelve infantry and eight horsemen; and take

their station where the mountain defile opens into the plain。 The

infantry; who lie in ambush some distance within the defile; suffer

the band to pass; then rise and fire upon them。 The contrabandistas

dash forward; but are met in front by the horsemen。 A wild skirmish

ensues。 The contrabandistas; if hard pressed; become desperate。 Some

dismount; use their horses as breast…works; and fire over their backs;

others cut the cords; let the packs fall off to delay the enemy; and

endeavor to escape with their steeds。 Some get off in this way with

the loss of their packages; some are taken; horses; packages; and all;

others abandon every thing; and make their escape by scrambling up the

mountains。 〃And then;〃 cried Sancho; who had been listening with a

greedy ear; 〃se hacen ladrones legitimos〃… and then they become

legitimate robbers。

  I could not help laughing at Sancho's idea of a legitimate calling

of the kind; but the chief of customs told me it was really the case

that the smugglers; when thus reduced to extremity; thought they had a

kind of right to take the road; and lay travellers under contribution;

until they had collected funds enough to mount and equip themselves in

contrabandista style。

  Towards noon our wayfaring companion took leave of us and turned

up a steep defile; followed by his escopetero; and shortly

afterwards we emerged from the mountains; and entered upon the far

famed Vega of Granada。

  Our last mid…day's repast was taken under a grove of olive…trees

on the border of a rivulet。 We were in a classical neighborhood; for

not far off were the groves and orchards of the Soto de Roma。 This;

according to fabulous tradition; was a retreat founded by Count Julian

to console his daughter Florinda。 It was a rural resort of the Moorish

kings of Granada; and has in modern times been granted to the Duke

of Wellington。

  Our worthy squire made a half melancholy face as he drew forth;

for the last time; the contents of his alforjas; lamenting that our

expedition was drawing to a close; for; with such cavaliers; he

said; he could travel to the world's end。 Our repast; however; was a

gay one; made under such delightful auspices。 The day was without a

cloud。 The heat of the sun was tempered by cool breezes from the

mountains。 Before us extended the glorious Vega。 In the distance was

romantic Granada surmounted by the ruddy towers of the Alhambra; while

far above it the snowy summits of the Sierra Nevada shone like silver。

  Our repast finished; we spread our cloaks and took our last siesta

al fresco; lulled by the humming of bees among the flowers and the

notes of doves among the olive…trees。 When the sultry hours were

passed we resumed our journey。 After a time we overtook a pursy little

man; shaped not unlike a toad and mounted on a mule。 He fell into

conversation with Sancho; and finding we were strangers; undertook

to guide us to a good posada。 He was an escribano (notary); he said;

and knew the city as thoroughly as his own pocket。 〃Ah Dios;

senores! what a city you are going to see。 Such streets! such squares!

such palaces! and then the women… ah Santa Maria purisima… what

women!〃 〃But the posada you talk of;〃 said I; 〃are you sure it is a

good one?〃

  〃Good! Santa Maria! the best in Granada。 Salones grandes… camas de

luxo… colchones de pluma (grand saloons… luxurious sleeping rooms…

beds of down)。 Ah; senores; you will fare like King Chico in the

Alhambra。〃

  〃And how will my horses fare?〃 cried Sancho。

  〃Like King Chico's horses。 Chocolate con leche y bollos para

almuerza〃 (〃chocolate and milk with sugar cakes for breakfast〃);

giving the squire a knowing wink and a leer。

  After such satisfactory accounts nothing more was to be desired on

that head。 So we rode quietly on; the squab little notary taking the

lead; and turning to us every moment with some fresh exclamation about

the grandeurs of Granada and the famous times we were to have at the

posada。

  Thus escorted; we passed between hedges of aloes and Indian figs;

and through that wilderness of gardens with which the Vega is

embroidered; and arrived about sunset at the gates of the city。 Our

officious little conductor conveyed us up one street and down another;

until he rode into the courtyard of an inn where he appeared to be

perfectly at home。 Summoning the landlord by his Christian name; he

committed us to his care as two caballeros de mucho valor; worthy of

his best apartments and most sumptuous fare。 We were instantly

reminded of the patronizing stranger who introduced Gil Blas with such

a flourish of trumpets to the host and hostess of the inn at

Pennaflor; ordering trouts for his supper; and eating voraciously at

his expense。 〃You know not what you possess;〃 cried he to the

innkeeper and his wife。 〃You have a treasure in your house。 Behold

in this young gentleman the eighth wonder of the world… nothing in

this house is too good for Senor Gil Blas of Santillane; who

deserves to be entertained like a prince。〃

  Determined that the little notary should not eat trouts at our

expense; like his prototype of Pennaflor; we forbore to ask him to

supper; nor had we reason to reproach ourselves with ingratitude;

for we found before morning the little varlet; who was no doubt a good

friend of the landlord; had decoyed us into one of the shabbiest

posadas in Granada。

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