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the Court of the Alberca sparkling before me。 The antechamber is
separated from the court by an elegant gallery; supported by slender
columns with spandrels of open work in the Morisco style。 At each
end of the antechamber are alcoves; and its ceiling is richly stuccoed
and painted。 Passing through a magnificent portal I found myself in
the far…famed Hall of Ambassadors; the audience chamber of the
Moslem monarchs。 It is said to be thirty…seven feet square; and
sixty feet high; occupies the whole interior of the Tower of
Comares; and still bears the traces of past magnificence。 The walls
are beautifully stuccoed and decorated with Morisco fancifulness;
the lofty ceiling was originally of the same favorite material; with
the usual frostwork and pensile ornaments or stalactites; which;
with the embellishments of vivid coloring and gilding; must have
been gorgeous in the extreme。 Unfortunately it gave way during an
earthquake; and brought down with it an immense arch which traversed
the hall。 It was replaced by the present vault or dome of larch or
cedar; with intersecting ribs; the whole curiously wrought and
richly colored; still Oriental in its character; reminding one of
〃those ceilings of cedar and vermilion that we read of in the prophets
and the Arabian Nights。〃*
* Urquhart's Pillars of Hercules。
From the great height of the vault above the windows the upper
part of the hall is almost lost in obscurity; yet there is a
magnificence as well as solemnity in the gloom; as through it we
have gleams of rich gilding and the brilliant tints of the Moorish
pencil。
The royal throne was placed opposite the entrance in a recess; which
still bears an inscription intimating that Yusef I (the monarch who
completed the Alhambra) made this the throne of his empire。 Every
thing in this noble hall seems to have been calculated to surround the
throne with impressive dignity and splendor; there was none of the
elegant voluptuousness which reigns in other parts of the palace。
The tower is of massive strength; domineering over the whole edifice
and overhanging the steep hillside。 On three sides of the Hall of
Ambassadors are windows cut through the immense thickness of the
walls; and commanding extensive prospects。 The balcony of the
central window especially looks down upon the verdant valley of the
Darro; with its walks; its groves; and gardens。 To the left it
enjoys a distant prospect of the Vega; while directly in front rises
the rival height of the Albaycin; with its medley of streets; and
terraces; and gardens; and once crowned by a fortress that vied in
power with the Alhambra。 〃Ill fated the man who lost all this!〃
exclaimed Charles V; as he looked forth from this window upon the
enchanting scenery it commands。
The balcony of the window where this royal exclamation was made; has
of late become one of my favorite resorts。 I have just been seated
there; enjoying the close of a long brilliant day。 The sun; as he sank
behind the purple mountains of Alhama; sent a stream of effulgence
up the valley of the Darro; that spread a melancholy pomp over the
ruddy towers of the Alhambra; while the Vega; covered with a slight
sultry vapor that caught the setting ray; seemed spread out in the
distance like a golden sea。 Not a breath of air disturbed the
stillness of the hour; and though the faint sound of music and
merriment now and then rose from the gardens of the Darro; it but
rendered more impressive the monumental silence of the pile which
overshadowed me。 It was one of those hours and scenes in which
memory asserts an almost magical power; and; like the evening sun
beaming on these mouldering towers; sends back her retrospective
rays to light up the glories of the past。
As I sat watching the effect of the declining daylight upon this
Moorish pile; I was led into a consideration of the light; elegant;
and voluptuous character; prevalent throughout its internal
architecture; and to contrast it with the grand but gloomy solemnity
of the Gothic edifices reared by the Spanish conquerors。 The very
architecture thus bespeaks the opposite and irreconcilable natures
of the two warlike people who so long battled here for the mastery
of the peninsula。 By degrees; I fell into a course of musing upon
the singular fortunes of the Arabian or Morisco…Spaniards; whose whole
existence is as a tale that is told; and certainly forms one of the
most anomalous yet splendid episodes in history。 Potent and durable as
was their dominion; we scarcely know how to call them。 They were a
nation without a legitimate country or name。 A remote wave of the
great Arabian inundation; cast upon the shores of Europe; they seem to
have all the impetus of the first rush of the torrent。 Their career of
conquest; from the rock of Gibraltar to the cliffs of the Pyrenees;
was as rapid and brilliant as the Moslem victories of Syria and Egypt。
Nay; had they not been checked on the plains of Tours; all France; all
Europe; might have been overrun with the same facility as the
empires of the East; and the crescent at this day have glittered on
the fanes of Paris and London。
Repelled within the limits of the Pyrenees; the mixed hordes of Asia
and Africa; that formed this great irruption; gave up the Moslem
principle of conquest; and sought to establish in Spain a peaceful and
permanent dominion。 As conquerors; their heroism was only equalled
by their moderation; and in both; for a time; they excelled the
nations with whom they contended。 Severed from their native homes;
they loved the land given them as they supposed by Allah; and strove
to embellish it with every thing that could administer to the
happiness of man。 Laying the foundations of their power in a system of
wise and equitable laws; diligently cultivating the arts and sciences;
and promoting agriculture; manufactures; and commerce; they
gradually formed an empire unrivalled for its prosperity by any of the
empires of Christendom; and diligently drawing round them the graces
and refinements which marked the Arabian empire in the East; at the
time of its greatest civilization; they diffused the light of Oriental
knowledge; through the Western regions of benighted Europe。
The cities of Arabian Spain became the resort of Christian artisans;
to instruct themselves in the useful arts。 The universities of Toledo;
Cordova; Seville; and Granada; were sought by the pale student from
other lands to acquaint himself with the sciences of the Arabs; and
the treasured lore of antiquity; the lovers of the gay science;
resorted to Cordova and Granada; to imbibe the poetry and music of the
East; and the steel…clad warriors of the North hastened thither to
accomplish themselves in the graceful exercises and courteous usages
of chivalry。
If the Moslem monuments in Spain; if the Mosque of Cordova; the
Alcazar of Seville; and the Alhambra of Granada; still bear
inscriptions fondly boasting of the power and permanency of their
dominion; can the boast be derided as arrogant and vain? Generation
after generation; century after century; passed away; and still they
maintained possession of the land。 A period elapsed longer than that
which has passed since England was subjugated by the Norman Conqueror;
and the descendants of Musa and Taric might as little anticipate being
driven into exile across the same straits; traversed by their
triumphant ancestors; as the descendants of Rollo and William; and
their veteran peers; may dream of being driven back to the shores of
Normandy。
With all this; however; the Moslem empire in Spain was but a
brilliant exotic; that took no permanent root in the soil it
embellished。 Severed from all their neighbors in the West; by
impassable barriers of faith and manners; and separated by seas and
deserts from their kindred of the East; the Morisco…spaniards were
an isolated people。 Their whole existence was a prolonged; though
gallant and chivalric struggle; for a foothold in a usurped land。
They were the outposts and frontiers of Islamism。 The peninsula
was the great battle…ground where the Gothic conquerors of the North
and the Moslem conquerors of the East; met and strove for mastery; and
the fiery courage of the Arab was at length subdued by the obstinate
and persevering valor of the Goth。
Never was the annihilation of a people more complete than that of
the Morisco…Spaniards。 Where are they? Ask the shores of Barbary and
its desert places。 The exiled remnant of their once powerful empire
disappeared among the barbarians of Africa; and ceased to be a nation。
They have not even left a distinct name behind them; though for nearly
eight centuries they were a distinct people。 The home of their
adoption; and of their occupation for ages; refuses to acknowledge
them; except as invaders and usurpers。 A few broken monuments are
all that remain to bear witness to their power and dominion; as
solitary rocks; left f