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THE phrase at the head of this chapter and other sentences； such as
〃American Society in Paris；〃 or London； are constantly on the lips of
people who should know better。 In reality these societies do not exist。
Does my reader pause； wondering if he can believe his eyes？ He has
doubtless heard all his life of these delightful circles； and believes in them。
He may even have dined； EN PASSANT； at the 〃palace〃 of some resident
compatriot in Rome or Florence； under the impression that he was within
its mystic limits。 Illusion！ An effect of mirage； making that which appears
quite tangible and solid when viewed from a distance dissolve into thin air
as one approaches； like the mirage； cheating the weary traveller with a
vision of what he most longs for。
Forty； even fifty years ago； there lived in Rome a group of very
agreeable people； Story and the two Greenoughs and Crawford； the
sculptor （father of the brilliant novelist of today）； Charlotte Cushman （who
divided her time between Rome and Newport）； and her friend Miss
Stebbins； the sculptress； to whose hands we owe the bronze fountain on
the Mall in our Park； Rogers； then working at the bronze doors of our
capitol； and many other cultivated and agreeable people。 Hawthorne
passed a couple of winters among them； and the tone of that society is
reflected in his 〃Marble Faun。〃 He took Story as a model for his
〃Kenyon；〃 and was the first to note the exotic grace of an American girl in
that strange setting。 They formed as transcendental and unworldly a group
as ever gathered about a 〃tea〃 table。 Great things were expected of them
and their influence； but they disappointed the world； and； with the
exception of Hawthorne； are being fast forgotten。
Nothing could be simpler than life in the papal capital in those
pleasant days。 Money was rare； but living as delightfully inexpensive。 It
was about that time； if I do not mistake； that a list was published in New
York of the citizens worth one hundred thousand dollars； and it was not a
long one！ The Roman colony took 〃tea〃 informally with each other； and
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〃received〃 on stated evenings in their studios （when mulled claret and
cakes were the only refreshment offered； very bad they were； too）； and
migrated in the summer to the mountains near Rome or to Sorrento。 In the
winter months their circle was enlarged by a contingent from home。
Among wealthy New Yorkers； it was the fashion in the early fifties to pass
a winter in Rome； when； together with his other dissipations； paterfamilias
would sit to one of the American sculptors for his bust； which accounts for
the horrors one now runs across in dark corners of country houses； …
ghostly heads in 〃chin whiskers〃 and Roman draperies。
The son of one of these pioneers； more rich than cultivated； noticed the
other day； while visiting a friend of mine； an exquisite eighteenth…century
bust of Madame de Pompadour； the pride of his hostess's drawing…room。
〃Ah！〃 said Midas； 〃are busts the fashion again？ I have one of my father；
done in Rome in 1850。 I will bring it down and put it in my parlor。〃
The travellers consulted the residents in their purchases of copies of
the old masters； for there were fashions in these luxuries as in everything
else。 There was a run at that time on the 〃Madonna in the Chair；〃 and
〃Beatrice Cenci〃 was long prime favorite。 Thousands of the latter leering
and winking over her everlasting shoulder； were solemnly sent home each
year。 No one ever dreamed of buying an original painting！ The tourists
also developed a taste for large marble statues； 〃Nydia； the Blind Girl of
Pompeii〃 （people read Bulwer； Byron and the Bible then） being in such
demand that I knew one block in lower Fifth Avenue that possessed seven
blind Nydias； all life…size； in white marble； … a form of decoration about as
well adapted to those scanty front parlors as a steam engine or a carriage
and pair would have been。 I fear Bulwer's heroine is at a discount now； and
often wonder as I see those old residences turning into shops； what has
become of the seven white elephants and all their brothers and sisters that
our innocent parents brought so proudly back from Italy！ I have succeeded
in locating two statues evidently imported at that time。 They grace the
back steps of a rather shabby villa in the country； … Demosthenes and
Cicero； larger than life； dreary； funereal memorials of the follies of our
fathers。
The simple days we have been speaking of did not； however； outlast
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the circle that inaugurated them。 About 1867 a few rich New Yorkers
began 〃trying to know the Italians〃 and go about with them。 One family；
〃up to snuff〃 in more senses than one； married their daughter to the scion
of a princely house； and immediately a large number of her compatriots
were bitten with the madness of going into Italian society。
In 1870； Rome became the capital of united Italy。 The court removed
there。 The 〃improvements〃 began。 Whole quarters were remodelled； and
the dear old Rome of other days； the Rome of Hawthorne and Madame de
Stael； was swept away。 With this new state of things came a number of
Americo…Italian marriages more or less successful； and anything like an
American society； properly so… called； disappeared。 To…day families of our
compatriots passing the winter months in Rome are either tourists who
live in hotels； and see sights； or go （as far as they can） into Italian society。
The Queen of Italy； who speaks excellent English； developed a
PENCHANT for Americans； and has attached several who married Italians
to her person in different court capacities； indeed； the old 〃Black〃 society；
who have remained true to the Pope； when they wish to ridicule the new
〃White〃 or royal circle； call it the 〃American court！〃 The feeling is bitter
still between the 〃Blacks〃 and 〃Whites；〃 and an American girl who
marries into one of these circles must make up her mind to see nothing of
friends or relatives in the opposition ranks。 It is said that an amalgamation
is being brought about； but it is slow work； a generation will have to die
out before much real mingling of the two courts will take place。 As both
these circles are poor； very little entertainment goes on。 One sees a little
life in the diplomatic world； and the King and Queen give a ball or two
during the winter； but since the repeated defeats of the Italian arms in
Africa； and the heavy financial difficulties （things these sovereigns take
very seriously to heart）； there has not been much 〃go〃 in the court
entertainments。 The young set hope great things of the new Princess of
Naples； the bride of the heir…apparent； a lady who is credited with being
full of fun and life； it is fondly imagined that she will set the ball rolling
again。 By the bye； her first lady…in…waiting； the young Duchess del Monte
of Naples； was an American girl； and a very pretty one； too。 She enjoyed
for some time the enviable distinction of being the youngest and
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handsomest duchess in Europe； until Miss Vanderbilt married
Marlborough and took the record from her。 The Prince and Princess of
Naples live at their Neapolitan capital； and will not do much to help things
in Rome。 Besides which he is very delicate and passes for not being any
too fond of the world。
What makes things worse is that the great nobles are mostly 〃land
poor；〃 and even the richer ones burned their fingers in the craze for
speculation that turned all Rome upside down in the years following 1870
and Italian unity； when they