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for the robbers durst not wait till the injured clan should find
them in the morning。
The interior inclosures； if the whole building were once a house；
were the chambers of the chief inhabitants。 If it was a place of
security for cattle； they were probably the shelters of the
keepers。
From the Dun we were conducted to another place of security； a cave
carried a great way under ground； which had been discovered by
digging after a fox。 These caves； of which many have been found；
and many probably remain concealed； are formed； I believe； commonly
by taking advantage of a hollow； where banks or rocks rise on
either side。 If no such place can be found； the ground must be cut
away。 The walls are made by piling stones against the earth； on
either side。 It is then roofed by larger stones laid across the
cavern； which therefore cannot be wide。 Over the roof； turfs were
placed； and grass was suffered to grow； and the mouth was concealed
by bushes； or some other cover。
These caves were represented to us as the cabins of the first rude
inhabitants； of which； however； I am by no means persuaded。 This
was so low； that no man could stand upright in it。 By their
construction they are all so narrow； that two can never pass along
them together； and being subterraneous； they must be always damp。
They are not the work of an age much ruder than the present； for
they are formed with as much art as the construction of a common
hut requires。 I imagine them to have been places only of
occasional use； in which the Islander； upon a sudden alarm； hid his
utensils； or his cloaths； and perhaps sometimes his wife and
children。
This cave we entered； but could not proceed the whole length； and
went away without knowing how far it was carried。 For this
omission we shall be blamed； as we perhaps have blamed other
travellers； but the day was rainy； and the ground was damp。 We had
with us neither spades nor pickaxes； and if love of ease surmounted
our desire of knowledge； the offence has not the invidiousness of
singularity。
Edifices； either standing or ruined； are the chief records of an
illiterate nation。 In some part of this journey； at no great
distance from our way； stood a shattered fortress； of which the
learned minister； to whose communication we are much indebted； gave
us an account。
Those； said he； are the walls of a place of refuge； built in the
time of James the Sixth； by Hugh Macdonald； who was next heir to
the dignity and fortune of his chief。 Hugh； being so near his
wish； was impatient of delay； and had art and influence sufficient
to engage several gentlemen in a plot against the Laird's life。
Something must be stipulated on both sides； for they would not dip
their hands in blood merely for Hugh's advancement。 The compact
was formerly written； signed by the conspirators； and placed in the
hands of one Macleod。
It happened that Macleod had sold some cattle to a drover； who； not
having ready money； gave him a bond for payment。 The debt was
discharged； and the bond re…demanded； which Macleod； who could not
read； intending to put into his hands； gave him the conspiracy。
The drover； when he had read the paper； delivered it privately to
Macdonald； who； being thus informed of his danger； called his
friends together； and provided for his safety。 He made a public
feast； and inviting Hugh Macdonald and his confederates； placed
each of them at the table between two men of known fidelity。 The
compact of conspiracy was then shewn； and every man confronted with
his own name。 Macdonald acted with great moderation。 He upbraided
Hugh； both with disloyalty and ingratitude； but told the rest； that
he considered them as men deluded and misinformed。 Hugh was sworn
to fidelity； and dismissed with his companions； but he was not
generous enough to be reclaimed by lenity； and finding no longer
any countenance among the gentlemen； endeavoured to execute the
same design by meaner hands。 In this practice he was detected；
taken to Macdonald's castle； and imprisoned in the dungeon。 When
he was hungry； they let down a plentiful meal of salted meat； and
when； after his repast； he called for drink； conveyed to him a
covered cup； which； when he lifted the lid； he found empty。 From
that time they visited him no more； but left him to perish in
solitude and darkness。
We were then told of a cavern by the sea…side； remarkable for the
powerful reverberation of sounds。 After dinner we took a boat； to
explore this curious cavity。 The boatmen； who seemed to be of a
rank above that of common drudges； inquired who the strangers were；
and being told we came one from Scotland； and the other from
England； asked if the Englishman could recount a long genealogy。
What answer was given them； the conversation being in Erse； I was
not much inclined to examine。
They expected no good event of the voyage； for one of them declared
that he heard the cry of an English ghost。 This omen I was not
told till after our return； and therefore cannot claim the dignity
of despising it。
The sea was smooth。 We never left the shore； and came without any
disaster to the cavern； which we found rugged and misshapen； about
one hundred and eighty feet long； thirty wide in the broadest part；
and in the loftiest； as we guessed； about thirty high。 It was now
dry； but at high water the sea rises in it near six feet。 Here I
saw what I had never seen before； limpets and mussels in their
natural state。 But； as a new testimony to the veracity of common
fame； here was no echo to be heard。
We then walked through a natural arch in the rock； which might have
pleased us by its novelty； had the stones； which incumbered our
feet； given us leisure to consider it。 We were shown the gummy
seed of the kelp； that fastens itself to a stone； from which it
grows into a strong stalk。
In our return； we found a little boy upon the point of rock；
catching with his angle； a supper for the family。 We rowed up to
him； and borrowed his rod； with which Mr。 Boswell caught a cuddy。
The cuddy is a fish of which I know not the philosophical name。 It
is not much bigger than a gudgeon； but is of great use in these
Islands； as it affords the lower people both food； and oil for
their lamps。 Cuddies are so abundant； at sometimes of the year；
that they are caught like whitebait in the Thames； only by dipping
a basket and drawing it back。
If it were always practicable to fish； these Islands could never be
in much danger from famine； but unhappily in the winter； when other
provision fails； the seas are commonly too rough for nets； or
boats。
TALISKER IN SKY
From Ulinish； our next stage was to Talisker； the house of colonel
Macleod； an officer in the Dutch service； who； in this time of
universal peace； has for several years been permitted to be absent
from his regiment。 Having been bred to physick； he is consequently
a scholar； and his lady； by accompanying him in his different
places of residence； is become skilful in several languages。
Talisker is the place beyond all that I have seen； from which the
gay and the jovial seem utterly excluded； and where the hermit
might expect to grow old in meditation； without possibility of
disturbance or interruption。 It is situated very near the sea； but
upon a coast where no vessel lands but when it is driven by a
tempest on the rocks。 Towards the land are lofty hills streaming
with water…falls。 The garden is sheltered by firs or pines； which
grow there so prosperously； that some； which the present inhabitant
planted； are very high and thick。
At this place we very happily met Mr。 Donald Maclean； a young
gentleman； the eldest son of the Laird of Col； heir to a very great
extent of land； and so desirous of improving his inheritance； that
he spent a considerable time among the farmers of Hertfordshire；
and Hampshire； to learn their practice。 He worked with his own
hands at the principal operations of agriculture； that he might not
deceive himself by a false opinion of skill； which； if he should
find it deficient at home； he had no means of completing。 If the
world has agreed to praise the travels and manual labours of the
Czar of Muscovy； let Col have his share of the like applause； in
the proportion of his dominions to the empire of Russia。
This young gentleman was sporting in the mountains of Sky； and when
he was weary with following his game； repaired for lodging to
Talisker。 At night he missed one of his dogs； and when he went to
seek him in the morning； found two eagles feeding on his carcass。
Col； for he must be named by his possessions； hearing that our
intention was to visit Jona； offered to conduct us to his chief；
Sir Allan Maclean； who lived in the isle of Inch Kenneth； and would
readily find us a convenient passage。 From this time was formed an
acquaintance； which being begun by kindness； was accidentally
continued by constraint； we derived much pleasure from it； and I
hope have given him no reason to repent it。
The weather was now almost one continued storm； and we were to
snatch some happy intermission to be conveyed to Mull； the third
Island of the Hebrides； lying about a degree south of Sky； w