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INCH KENNETH
In the morning we went again into the boat； and were landed on Inch
Kenneth； an Island about a mile long； and perhaps half a mile
broad； remarkable for pleasantness and fertility。 It is verdant
and grassy； and fit both for pasture and tillage； but it has no
trees。 Its only inhabitants were Sir Allan Maclean and two young
ladies； his daughters； with their servants。
Romance does not often exhibit a scene that strikes the imagination
more than this little desert in these depths of Western obscurity；
occupied not by a gross herdsman； or amphibious fisherman； but by a
gentleman and two ladies； of high birth； polished manners and
elegant conversation； who； in a habitation raised not very far
above the ground； but furnished with unexpected neatness and
convenience； practised all the kindness of hospitality； and
refinement of courtesy。
Sir Allan is the Chieftain of the great clan of Maclean； which is
said to claim the second place among the Highland families；
yielding only to Macdonald。 Though by the misconduct of his
ancestors； most of the extensive territory； which would have
descended to him； has been alienated； he still retains much of the
dignity and authority of his birth。 When soldiers were lately
wanting for the American war； application was made to Sir Allan；
and he nominated a hundred men for the service； who obeyed the
summons； and bore arms under his command。
He had then； for some time； resided with the young ladies in Inch
Kenneth； where he lives not only with plenty； but with elegance；
having conveyed to his cottage a collection of books； and what else
is necessary to make his hours pleasant。
When we landed； we were met by Sir Allan and the Ladies；
accompanied by Miss Macquarry； who had passed some time with them；
and now returned to Ulva with her father。
We all walked together to the mansion； where we found one cottage
for Sir Allan； and I think two more for the domesticks and the
offices。 We entered； and wanted little that palaces afford。 Our
room was neatly floored； and well lighted； and our dinner； which
was dressed in one of the other huts； was plentiful and delicate。
In the afternoon Sir Allan reminded us； that the day was Sunday；
which he never suffered to pass without some religious distinction；
and invited us to partake in his acts of domestick worship； which I
hope neither Mr。 Boswell nor myself will be suspected of a
disposition to refuse。 The elder of the Ladies read the English
service。
Inch Kenneth was once a seminary of ecclesiasticks； subordinate； I
suppose； to Icolmkill。 Sir Allan had a mind to trace the
foundations of the college； but neither I nor Mr。 Boswell； who
bends a keener eye on vacancy； were able to perceive them。
Our attention； however； was sufficiently engaged by a venerable
chapel； which stands yet entire； except that the roof is gone。 It
is about sixty feet in length； and thirty in breadth。 On one side
of the altar is a bas relief of the blessed Virgin； and by it lies
a little bell； which； though cracked； and without a clapper； has
remained there for ages； guarded only by the venerableness of the
place。 The ground round the chapel is covered with grave…stones of
Chiefs and ladies； and still continues to be a place of sepulture。
Inch Kenneth is a proper prelude to Icolmkill。 It was not without
some mournful emotion that we contemplated the ruins of religious
structures and the monuments of the dead。
On the next day we took a more distinct view of the place； and went
with the boat to see oysters in the bed； out of which the boat…men
forced up as many as were wanted。 Even Inch Kenneth has a
subordinate Island； named Sandiland； I suppose in contempt； where
we landed； and found a rock； with a surface of perhaps four acres；
of which one is naked stone； another spread with sand and shells；
some of which I picked up for their glossy beauty； and two covered
with a little earth and grass； on which Sir Allan has a few sheep。
I doubt not but when there was a college at Inch Kenneth； there was
a hermitage upon Sandiland。
Having wandered over those extensive plains； we committed ourselves
again to the winds and waters； and after a voyage of about ten
minutes； in which we met with nothing very observable； were again
safe upon dry ground。
We told Sir Allan our desire of visiting Icolmkill； and entreated
him to give us his protection； and his company。 He thought proper
to hesitate a little； but the Ladies hinted； that as they knew he
would not finally refuse； he would do better if he preserved the
grace of ready compliance。 He took their advice； and promised to
carry us on the morrow in his boat。
We passed the remaining part of the day in such amusements as were
in our power。 Sir Allan related the American campaign； and at
evening one of the Ladies played on her harpsichord； while Col and
Mr。 Boswell danced a Scottish reel with the other。
We could have been easily persuaded to a longer stay upon Inch
Kenneth； but life will not be all passed in delight。 The session
at Edinburgh was approaching； from which Mr。 Boswell could not be
absent。
In the morning our boat was ready： it was high and strong。 Sir
Allan victualled it for the day； and provided able rowers。 We now
parted from the young Laird of Col； who had treated us with so much
kindness； and concluded his favours by consigning us to Sir Allan。
Here we had the last embrace of this amiable man； who； while these
pages were preparing to attest his virtues； perished in the passage
between Ulva and Inch Kenneth。
Sir Allan； to whom the whole region was well known； told us of a
very remarkable cave； to which he would show us the way。 We had
been disappointed already by one cave； and were not much elevated
by the expectation of another。
It was yet better to see it； and we stopped at some rocks on the
coast of Mull。 The mouth is fortified by vast fragments of stone；
over which we made our way； neither very nimbly； nor very securely。
The place； however； well repaid our trouble。 The bottom； as far as
the flood rushes in； was encumbered with large pebbles； but as we
advanced was spread over with smooth sand。 The breadth is about
forty…five feet： the roof rises in an arch； almost regular； to a
height which we could not measure； but I think it about thirty
feet。
This part of our curiosity was nearly frustrated； for though we
went to see a cave； and knew that caves are dark； we forgot to
carry tapers； and did not discover our omission till we were
wakened by our wants。 Sir Allan then sent one of the boatmen into
the country； who soon returned with one little candle。 We were
thus enabled to go forward； but could not venture far。 Having
passed inward from the sea to a great depth； we found on the right
hand a narrow passage； perhaps not more than six feet wide；
obstructed by great stones； over which we climbed and came into a
second cave； in breadth twenty…five feet。 The air in this
apartment was very warm； but not oppressive； nor loaded with
vapours。 Our light showed no tokens of a feculent or corrupted
atmosphere。 Here was a square stone； called； as we are told；
Fingal's Table。
If we had been provided with torches； we should have proceeded in
our search； though we had already gone as far as any former
adventurer； except some who are reported never to have returned；
and； measuring our way back； we found it more than a hundred and
sixty yards； the eleventh part of a mile。
Our measures were not critically exact； having been made with a
walking pole； such as it is convenient to carry in these rocky
countries； of which I guessed the length by standing against it。
In this there could be no great errour； nor do I much doubt but the
Highlander； whom we employed； reported the number right。 More
nicety however is better； and no man should travel unprovided with
instruments for taking heights and distances。
There is yet another cause of errour not always easily surmounted；
though more dangerous to the veracity of itinerary narratives； than
imperfect mensuration。 An observer deeply impressed by any
remarkable spectacle； does not suppose； that the traces will soon
vanish from his mind； and having commonly no great convenience for
writing； defers the description to a time of more leisure； and
better accommodation。
He who has not made the experiment； or who is not accustomed to
require rigorous accuracy from himself； will scarcely believe how
much a few hours take from certainty of knowledge； and distinctness
of imagery； how the succession of objects will be broken； how
separate parts will be confused； and how many particular features
and discriminations will be compressed and conglobated into one
gross and general idea。
To this dilatory notation must be imputed the false relations of
travellers； where there is no imaginable motive to deceive。 They
trusted to memory； what cannot be trusted safely but to the eye；
and told by guess what a few hours before they had known with
certainty。 Thus it was that Wheeler and Spon described with
irreconcilable contrariety things which they surveyed together； and
which both undoubtedly designed to show as they