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of the country； might； at least before the roads were made； have
wandered among the rocks； till he had perished with hardship；
before he could have found either food or shelter。 Yet what are
these hillocks to the ridges of Taurus； or these spots of wildness
to the desarts of America？
It was not long before we were invited to mount； and continued our
journey along the side of a lough； kept full by many streams； which
with more or less rapidity and noise； crossed the road from the
hills on the other hand。 These currents； in their diminished
state； after several dry months； afford； to one who has always
lived in level countries； an unusual and delightful spectacle； but
in the rainy season； such as every winter may be expected to bring；
must precipitate an impetuous and tremendous flood。 I suppose the
way by which we went； is at that time impassable。
GLENSHEALS
The lough at last ended in a river broad and shallow like the rest；
but that it may be passed when it is deeper； there is a bridge over
it。 Beyond it is a valley called Glensheals； inhabited by the clan
of Macrae。 Here we found a village called Auknasheals； consisting
of many huts； perhaps twenty； built all of dry…stone； that is；
stones piled up without mortar。
We had； by the direction of the officers at Fort Augustus； taken
bread for ourselves； and tobacco for those Highlanders who might
show us any kindness。 We were now at a place where we could obtain
milk； but we must have wanted bread if we had not brought it。 The
people of this valley did not appear to know any English； and our
guides now became doubly necessary as interpreters。 A woman； whose
hut was distinguished by greater spaciousness and better
architecture； brought out some pails of milk。 The villagers
gathered about us in considerable numbers； I believe without any
evil intention； but with a very savage wildness of aspect and
manner。 When our meal was over； Mr。 Boswell sliced the bread； and
divided it amongst them； as he supposed them never to have tasted a
wheaten loaf before。 He then gave them little pieces of twisted
tobacco； and among the children we distributed a small handful of
halfpence； which they received with great eagerness。 Yet I have
been since told； that the people of that valley are not indigent；
and when we mentioned them afterwards as needy and pitiable； a
Highland lady let us know； that we might spare our commiseration；
for the dame whose milk we drank had probably more than a dozen
milk…cows。 She seemed unwilling to take any price； but being
pressed to make a demand； at last named a shilling。 Honesty is not
greater where elegance is less。 One of the bystanders； as we were
told afterwards； advised her to ask for more； but she said a
shilling was enough。 We gave her half a crown； and I hope got some
credit for our behaviour； for the company said； if our interpreters
did not flatter us； that they had not seen such a day since the old
laird of Macleod passed through their country。
The Macraes； as we heard afterwards in the Hebrides； were
originally an indigent and subordinate clan； and having no farms
nor stock； were in great numbers servants to the Maclellans； who；
in the war of Charles the First； took arms at the call of the
heroic Montrose； and were； in one of his battles； almost all
destroyed。 The women that were left at home； being thus deprived
of their husbands； like the Scythian ladies of old； married their
servants； and the Macraes became a considerable race。
THE HIGHLANDS
As we continued our journey； we were at leisure to extend our
speculations； and to investigate the reason of those peculiarities
by which such rugged regions as these before us are generally
distinguished。
Mountainous countries commonly contain the original； at least the
oldest race of inhabitants； for they are not easily conquered；
because they must be entered by narrow ways； exposed to every power
of mischief from those that occupy the heights； and every new ridge
is a new fortress； where the defendants have again the same
advantages。 If the assailants either force the strait； or storm
the summit； they gain only so much ground； their enemies are fled
to take possession of the next rock； and the pursuers stand at
gaze； knowing neither where the ways of escape wind among the
steeps； nor where the bog has firmness to sustain them： besides
that； mountaineers have an agility in climbing and descending
distinct from strength or courage； and attainable only by use。
If the war be not soon concluded； the invaders are dislodged by
hunger； for in those anxious and toilsome marches； provisions
cannot easily be carried； and are never to be found。 The wealth of
mountains is cattle； which； while the men stand in the passes； the
women drive away。 Such lands at last cannot repay the expence of
conquest； and therefore perhaps have not been so often invaded by
the mere ambition of dominion； as by resentment of robberies and
insults； or the desire of enjoying in security the more fruitful
provinces。
As mountains are long before they are conquered； they are likewise
long before they are civilized。 Men are softened by intercourse
mutually profitable； and instructed by comparing their own notions
with those of others。 Thus Caesar found the maritime parts of
Britain made less barbarous by their commerce with the Gauls。 Into
a barren and rough tract no stranger is brought either by the hope
of gain or of pleasure。 The inhabitants having neither commodities
for sale； nor money for purchase； seldom visit more polished
places； or if they do visit them； seldom return。
It sometimes happens that by conquest； intermixture； or gradual
refinement； the cultivated parts of a country change their
language。 The mountaineers then become a distinct nation； cut off
by dissimilitude of speech from conversation with their neighbours。
Thus in Biscay； the original Cantabrian； and in Dalecarlia； the old
Swedish still subsists。 Thus Wales and the Highlands speak the
tongue of the first inhabitants of Britain； while the other parts
have received first the Saxon； and in some degree afterwards the
French； and then formed a third language between them。
That the primitive manners are continued where the primitive
language is spoken； no nation will desire me to suppose； for the
manners of mountaineers are commonly savage； but they are rather
produced by their situation than derived from their ancestors。
Such seems to be the disposition of man； that whatever makes a
distinction produces rivalry。 England； before other causes of
enmity were found； was disturbed for some centuries by the contests
of the northern and southern counties； so that at Oxford； the peace
of study could for a long time be preserved only by chusing
annually one of the Proctors from each side of the Trent。 A tract
intersected by many ridges of mountains； naturally divides its
inhabitants into petty nations； which are made by a thousand causes
enemies to each other。 Each will exalt its own chiefs； each will
boast the valour of its men； or the beauty of its women； and every
claim of superiority irritates competition； injuries will sometimes
be done； and be more injuriously defended； retaliation will
sometimes be attempted； and the debt exacted with too much
interest。
In the Highlands it was a law； that if a robber was sheltered from
justice； any man of the same clan might be taken in his place。
This was a kind of irregular justice； which； though necessary in
savage times； could hardly fail to end in a feud； and a feud once
kindled among an idle people with no variety of pursuits to divert
their thoughts； burnt on for ages either sullenly glowing in secret
mischief； or openly blazing into public violence。 Of the effects
of this violent judicature； there are not wanting memorials。 The
cave is now to be seen to which one of the Campbells； who had
injured the Macdonalds； retired with a body of his own clan。 The
Macdonalds required the offender； and being refused； made a fire at
the mouth of the cave； by which he and his adherents were
suffocated together。
Mountaineers are warlike； because by their feuds and competitions
they consider themselves as surrounded with enemies； and are always
prepared to repel incursions； or to make them。 Like the Greeks in
their unpolished state； described by Thucydides； the Highlanders；
till lately； went always armed； and carried their weapons to
visits； and to church。
Mountaineers are thievish； because they are poor； and having
neither manufactures nor commerce； can grow richer only by robbery。
They regularly plunder their neighbours； for their neighbours are
commonly their enemies； and having lost that reverence for
property； by which the order of civil life is preserved； soon
consider all as enemies； whom they do not reckon as friends； and
think themselves licensed to invade whatever they are not obliged
to protect。
By a strict administration of the laws； since the laws have been
introduced into the Highlands； this disposition to thievery is very
much represt。 Thirty years ago no herd had ever been conducted
through the mountains； without paying tribute in