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power。
The mosque in which they pursue their studies is now almost empty。 In
its restful twilight there is silence； and the unexpected music of
little birds； it is the brooding season and the ceilings of carved
wood are full of nests； which nobody disturbs。
A world； this mosque； in which thousands of people could easily find
room。 Some hundred and fifty marble columns； brought from ancient
temples； support the arches of the seven parallel aisles。 There is no
light save that which comes through the arcade opening into the
courtyard； and it is so dark in the aisles at the far end that we
wonder again how the faithful can see to read when the sun of Egypt
happens to be veiled。
Some score of students； who seem almost lost in the vast solitude；
still remain during the hour of rest； and are busy sweeping the floor
with long palms made into a kind of broom。 These are the poor
students； whose only meal is of dry bread； and who at night stretch
themselves to sleep on the same mat on which they have sat studying
during the day。
The residence at the university is free to all the scholars； the cost
of their education and maintenance being provided by pious donations。
But； inasmuch as the bequests are restricted according to nationality；
there is necessarily inequality in the treatment doled out to the
different students： thus the young men of a given country may be
almost rich； possessing a room and a good bed； while those of a
neighbouring country must sleep on the ground and have barely enough
to keep body and soul together。 But none of them complain； and they
know how to help one another。＇*＇
＇*＇ The duration of the studies at El…Azhar varies from three to six
years。
Near to us； one of these needy students is eating； without any false
shame； his midday meal of dry bread； and he welcomes with a smile the
sparrows and the other little winged thieves who come to dispute with
him the crumbs of his repast。 And farther down； in the dimly lighted
vaults at the end； is one who disdains to eat； or who； maybe； has no
bread； who； when his sweeping is done； reseats himself on his mat；
and； opening his Koran； commences to read aloud with the customary
intonation。 His voice； rich and facile； and moderated with discretion；
has a charm that is irresistible in the sonorous old mosque； where at
this hour the only other sound is the scarcely perceptible twittering
of the little broods above； among the dull gold beams of the ceiling。
Those who have been familiar with the sanctuaries of Islam know； as
well as I； that there is no book so exquisitely rhythmical as that of
the Prophet。 Even if the sense of the verses escape you； the chanted
reading； which forms part of certain of the offices； acts upon you by
the simple magic of its sounds； in the same way as the oratorios which
draw tears in the churches of Christ。 Rising and falling like some sad
lullaby； the declamation of this young priest； with his face of
visionary； and garb of decent poverty； swells involuntarily； till
gradually it seems to fill the seven deserted aisles of El…Azhar。
We stop in spite of ourselves； and listen； in the midst of the silence
of midday。 And in this so venerable place； where dilapidation and the
usury of centuries are revealed on every sideeven on the marble
columns worn by the constant friction of handsthis voice of gold
that rises alone seems as if it were intoning the last lament over the
death…pang of Old Islam and the end of time； the elegy； as it were； of
the universal death of faith in the heart of man。
*****
〃Science is one religion； prayer is another。 Study is better than
worship。 Go； seek knowledge everywhere； if needs be； even into
China。〃
Verses from the Hadith。
Amongst us Europeans it is commonly accepted as a proven fact that
Islam is merely a religion of obscurantism； bringing in its train the
stagnation of nations； and hampering them in that march to the unknown
which we call 〃progress。〃 But such an attitude shows not only an
absolute ignorance of the teaching of the Prophet； but a blind
forgetfulness of the evidence of history。 The Islam of the earlier
centuries evolved and progressed with the nations； and the stimulus it
gave to men in the reign of the ancient caliphs is beyond all
question。 To impute to it the present decadence of the Moslem world is
altogether too puerile。 The truth is that nations have their day； and
to a period of glorious splendour succeeds a time of lassitude and
slumber。 It is a law of nature。 And then one day some danger threatens
them； stirs them from their torpor and they awake。
This immobility of the countries of the Crescent was once dear to me。
If the end is to pass through life with the minimum of suffering；
disdaining all vain striving； and to die entranced by radiant hopes；
the Orientals are the only wise men。 But now that greedy nations beset
them on all sides their dreaming is no longer possible。 They must
awake； alas。
They must awake； and already the awakening is at hand。 Here； in Egypt；
where the need is felt to change so many things； it is proposed； too；
to reform the old university of El…Azhar； one of the chief centres of
Islam。 One thinks of it with a kind of fear； knowing what danger there
is in laying hands upon institutions which have lasted for a thousand
years。 Reform； however； has； in principle； been decided upon。 New
knowledge； brought from the West； is penetrating into the tabernacle
of the Fatimites。 Has not the Prophet said： 〃Go； seek knowledge far
and wide； if needs be even into China〃？ What will come of it？ Who can
tell？ But this； at least； is certain： that in the dazzling hours of
noon； or in the golden hours of evening； when the crowd of these
modernised students spreads itself over the vast courtyard； overlooked
by its countless minarets； there will no longer be seen in their eyes
the mystic light of to…day； and it will no longer be the old
unshakable faith； nor the lofty and serene indifference； nor the
profound peace； that these messengers will carry to the ends of the
Mussulman earth。 。 。 。
CHAPTER VI
IN THE TOMBS OF THE APIS
The dwelling…places of the Apis； in the grim darkness beneath the
Memphite desert； are； as all the world knows； monster coffins of black
granite ranged in catacombs； hot and stifling as eternal stoves。
To reach them from the banks of the Nile we have first to traverse the
low region which the inundations of the ancient river； regularly
repeated since the beginning of time； have rendered propitious to the
growth of plants and to the development of men； an hour or two's
journey； this evening through forests of date…trees whose beautiful
palms temper the light of the March sun； which is now half veiled in
clouds and already declining。 In the distance herds are grazing in the
cool shade。 And we meet fellahs leading back from the field towards
the village on the river…bank their little donkeys； laden with sheaves
of corn。 The air is mild and wholesome under the high tufts of these
endless green plumes； which move in the warm wind almost without
noise。 We seem to be in some happy land； where the pastoral life
should be easy； and even a little paradisiacal。
But beyond； in front of us； quite a different world is gradually
revealed。 Its aspect assumes the importance of a menace from the
unknown； it awes us like an apparition of chaos； of universal death。
。 。 。 It is the desert； the conquering desert； in the midst of which
inhabited Egypt； the green valleys of the Nile； trace merely a narrow
ribbon。 And here； more than elsewhere； the sight of this sovereign
desert rising up before us is startling and thrilling； so high up it
seems； and we so low in the Edenlike valley shaded by the palms。 With
its yellow hues； its livid marblings； and its sands which make it look
somehow as if it lacked consistency； it rises on the whole horizon
like a kind of soft wall or a great fearsome cloudor rather； like a
long cataclysmic wave； which does not move indeed； but which； if it
did； would overwhelm and swallow everything。 It is the /Memphite
desert/a place； that is to say； such as does not exist elsewhere on
earth； a fabulous necropolis； in which men of earlier times； heaped up
for some three thousand years the embalmed bodies of their dead；
exaggerating； as time went on； the foolish grandeur of their tombs。
Now； above the sand which looks like the front of some great tidal
wave arrested in its progress； we see on all sides； and far into the
distance； triangles of superhuman proportions which were once the
tombs of mummies； pyramids； still upright； all of them； on their
sinister pedestal of sand。 Some are comparatively near； others almost
lost in the background of the solitudesand perhaps more awesome in
that they are merely outlined in grey； high up among the clouds。
*****
The little carriages that h